20 Most Recent Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

which one

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

make sure you have 240 volts. if you do, check your heating element to see if you have continuity

Usually the Model Number is inside the door. Then you can call an Appliance Parts Store they can give you the part number. I looked on the Kenmore site I could not find it.

the dryer wont stop running only when open door will it start a fire?

Two different issues to address. First let's take care of your moisture sensors. If your lint screen is on the top of the washer, look at the back panel on the inside of the drum. If your lint screen is under the door, put you head in the drum and look straight back towards where the lint filter sits. Which ever style you have, you should see 2 silver bars inside. These are you moisture sensors. They work on the principle that when something wet brushes across them, it completes a circuit and tells the unit to keep running. Overtime, they can develop a build up on them and moisture cannot get to the sensors. Therefore the dryer "thinks" the clothes are dry and turns itself off. The easiest way to clean them is either using the "rough" side of a double sided sponge or for slightly worse/ stubborn build up you can use a fine grit sand paper. Rub either of these back and forth across your sensors to clean them up.
Now the second thing I wanted to check on was you said that you stopped using the auto sensing feature and then later you said sometimes it can take quite a few hours to dry a load. Now if you have stopped using the auto sensing AND it is still taking quite a few hours, then read on, otherwise you should be all set. However if you are still having hours of drying time on your timed dry cyles as well, then read on. From the dryer side, using a vaccume cleaner attachment (availible at most appliance parts stores) to clean out under your lint screen can help. Also check the vent between the wall and rear of the dryer. Is it bent or kinked? Remove it and clean it out as well once it is straightened. Lastly, you could have a restriction in the house portion of your vent. Again appliance parts stores generally sell a cleaning kit for the house portion or there are companies that specialize in dryer vent cleaning as well.
Sorry if you didn't need the last portion, but I just wanted to make sure we covered all of the problems you were having. Drop me a note back if you need anything else.

Main selector switch may be bad. Vibration sensor may be tripped, although usually self resetting. Did you check breaker?

clean the lint filter and try again

See you motor: and apply the following formula:I= P/E i=currente p=watts e=voltage, you must find the amp, see the plate of motor and make the simple calculaltion hp= 745watts.God bless you

The dryer has a safety switch for the belt. I f the belt is broke, replace it and all will be good.