Power Acoustik TS620-2 Amplifier

That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.

Honestly, if you have to ask, you should have a pro do it for you.
The few bucks you spend on installation may save a lot of money in burned out woofers and amps and wires etc.etc.

Good day ma'am, hi, hooking up an extra amp. on your radio is done by audio professionals, but if you can remove the radio out from your ford, you can install that extra amp. Just follow the diagram below. You need to find line out of your radio to line in of your kicker amp. connect them using audio shielded cables. connect your speakers to the amp. I guess you this already.

HI DUDE UR CAR BAT NEED TO B CHANGE PLUS UR ALTERNATOR IS GOING TO FAIL SOON ... THATS ALL ... IF U ARE USING NOW IT MAYBE COZ LOTS OF PROBLEM TO CAPICATOR

do u have the remote wire hooked up to the (rem) spot usally inbetween the pos and neg?

you may be running 2 low of ohm load

If the amp goes into protect mode, it's likely due to shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, read through the following page:

Amp in Protect Mode - Troubleshooting

If the problems are not with the wiring, follow the link at the bottom of the page to the Amplifier Repair Primer page.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ

Sounds like you popped a fuse my man. Check your Manual on how to replace them.

Umm a ohm meter would help you here. Double check the wires from the sub to the amp...make sure its not shorting out. Try starting the amp without the wires on the terminals...if the protection shows up then there is a short inside the unit and it will need to be replaced/repaired.