20 Most Recent Rockford Fosgate Punch 301M Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.

Hello jeremymikjha,

Basically you want to match the subs in impedance and power.

With 4 ohm subs wired in parallel, the final load will be 2 ohms. Depending on how hard you want them to hit, a pair of 400 watt RMS subs will need an amp that delivers 600-1,000 watts into a 2 ohm load.

The enclosure you use will also make a big difference. A sealed enclosure will need more power. A ported enclosure will be louder with less power.

The Hifonics shown here would be a good choice for a sealed enclosure. It's rated for 1,100 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17598_Hifonics+BXi+1610D.html

The Eclipse XA1200 outputs 600 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. It would power the subs very well in a ported box.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17598_Hifonics+BXi+1610D.html

Somewhat less expensive but good quality would be one of the Alpine MRP series. The MRP-M500 is only $179.99 at SonicElectronix. It delivers 500 watts. It's big brother is the MRP-M1000 with twice the power. Be sure your subs are securely mounted or this amp will literally "lift the subs".

Hope this helps.

Check the Inline Fuse -=Usually located Close to the battery in the engine copartment=- and also check the fuse in the AMP. Without knowing and seeing all of the details i would say to try to bypass the capicator, I know that i always unhooked my inline before jumping the car but i know it happens. Hopefully it will be just that a fuse or the capicator but if some sort of surge resulted from multiple failures get the amp bench tested at A car audio shop. Just some thoughts.

no this amp is only rated for 2 ohms and up

make sure all you wiring is in the right place if they are then you amp have a prob

Hello goup1819,

There are some basic things that you can check without a volt-ohm-milliamp meter (VOM or multimeter), but having a meter really enhances the troubleshooting process.

I'd begin by checking the power and ground. Make sure that you have the appropriate gauge wire and that all of the terminals and connections are tight and solid. Particularly check the ground wire. It should be as short as possible and be connected to BARE METAL on the vehicle chassis or frame. Make sure that there is no primer, paint, undercoating or corrosion impeding the connection. Likewise, the power wire needs a firm connection, preferably using a ring terminal, and be a direct run from the positive battery terminal, through an appropriate fuse, to the amp power terminal, and be as short as possible to minimize voltage drop.

You can also check some of the vehicle wiring. Rusted and corroded connections can reduce the voltage going to your amp. You can loosen the connections and clean them off with a wire brush or sandpaper and then retighten them. Check and clean the connections on both battery cables at both ends, and also the cable coming from the alternator. Do this cleaning with the negative cable disconnected from the battery post.

You can test the amp directly by using a "spare" 12V battery or use the installed vehicle battery by bringing power to the amp using a good set of jumper cables and a couple of short pieces of 8gauge wire. Just be sure to keep exposed portions of the jumper cables away from any metallic surfaces and temporarily covered with plastic or other insulation. If the amp powers up properly with this direct power test, the problem is definitely in the vehicle electrical system or there's too much voltage drop in your amp wiring. If the amp still shows low voltage, then I'd suspect that the amp is defective.

Hope this helps.

honestly i dont think those to amps will push cvxs no matter how you wire them up.
the rms on the 200 should be used to push a door speaker.
the 800watt should deff just be hooked to 1 cvx but still wont max it out.

The older Rockford amps required external fuses. There were no on-board fuses.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If neither is too low, the power supply in the amp is probably blown.

try running a target switch. most likely your soulderin came loose inside the amplifier

Recheck wining setup for proper connection

Internal or external short. Disconnect everything but power, does it still blow? If it does, you need to take it in for repair..

Hello a_brake11,

The P325.1 is relatively small to power a pair of P3's. You'll only get 325 watts RMS at 2 ohms (162.5 watts per sub). The P3's power range is from 100-500 watts, so they will work, but don't expect them to be really loud.

For best power, your subs should be wired with the voice coils in series and then the 2 subs paralleled to the amp resulting in a 2 ohm load.

Hope this helps.

https://www.modifiedlife.com/2006-nissan-sentra-car-stereo-wiring-guide/ the link above might help. Good Luck.

First off will the fastener turn ? If not try using a bit of wd-40 and letting it "soak" for a little while . Also be sure you are using a good proper sized Phillips screwdriver . If the fastener still won't turn try using a can of "computer duster " inverted so the liquid comes out , note this will be well below zero degrees , and freeze the screw head , then try turning . If the fastener is stripped and the ttol slips you will have to remove the amp cover and grip it with a pair of vise grips ,pliers or a flat blade screw driver .

You may not have enough ground connection or your are running too much power for your amp

Yes. Wire the two 2 Ohm speakers in series and connect them to one channel. Connect the 4 Ohm speaker into the other channel. This will give you a balanced 4 Ohm load on each channel.