Wiring a jec9536bdb cooktop

You need to put a multimeter across the two wires to check it.

The white one may just form an earth loop,, I recently had a ceramic plate needing cleaned so we did the whole lot, I think most hobs have 4 wires and they are numbered rather than colour coded..hope this helps

If you are running new wire to the cook top. You need to run 10x4 wire. The 12x4 wire is not large enough for the 220v. Also the 20 amp breaker is not large enough to run the cook top. You need to use a duel 30 amp breaker.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer.

L1 and L2 connect to the black and red. White connects to White. Green connects to the electrical box if it is made of steel and is grounded. Otherwise the green connects to the whites

from supply
white, black - should be hot then ground

On cooktop
red, black - should be hot white - neutral then ground

If you have a volt meter measure
supply
between white - black 220v
between white or black - ground 110

cooktop
between red - black 220v
between red or black - ground or neutral 110

If the above is confirmed
connect
red (cooktop) to white(supply)
black (cooktop) to black(supply)
white (cooktop) to ground(supply)

Regards

HEllo
I have the following manuals in PDF format,
I will gladly email them to you.
Model: GLEC30S8ESB Owner Guide(English): 318200612en Wiring Diagram: 318046807 Installation Instructions: 318201426 Parts Manual: 5995479655
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY

 You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage. 

To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers.
The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up...
because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral -
which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up....
which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
Krazytech

You do need a 208/240 volt supply from your service panel. The green is ground, white is nuetral, and the red and black should measure 120 volts each to ground or 240/208 between each other. It is normal for most breaker panels to supply 208/240 between adjacent insulators. If you are only getting 1/2 of that then the circuit breaker may not be straddling the insulator bar but be 1/2 notch out and both breaker pins contacting the same 110 supply.

Smalltree, You may want to make sure that they have 220 wired to the cooktop. I've seen a lot of new construction where they are hooking the cooktops up to 120V and wondering why they're not working. Check this first and post back..Catriver.