LG LFC25760SB Open door, burning plastic/wiring smell light doesn't go on....pulled it out from wall cleaned behind. Kept it closed for about an hour opened it seemed to be cooling right and light came back on, that was on sunday (11/27/11). Now no more problems on Monday, today tho same thing light off and burning plastic/wiring smell is back? Please help

In the LG bottom freezer refrigerator (model LFC25760SB), the light bulb covers inside the refrigerator and freezer compartments are attached using friction-fit clips.

It will be safest to unplug the unit, or shut off the circuit breaker. You may also need to remove Items, including the top 1 or 2 shelves.

Push the front of the cover gently toward the back of the refrigerator; LG's instructions show a screwdriver, but I would use something more flexible like an expired credit card or emty gift card. Swing the cover down to unhook the clips at the back.

Be careful with the bulbs, as they can get very hot, particularly if it takes some time to clear the way to the cover and get it off. I would close the door and wait a few minutes to let the bulbs cool off before removing them.

LG has a downloadable manual on their website that shows the procedure and gives the bulb specs (60 watt appliance type).

https://www.lg.com/us/lgecs.downloadFile.ldwf?DOC_ID=KROWM000110253&what=MANUAL&fromSystem=LG.COM&fileId=KROWM000110253.pdf&ORIGINAL_NAME_b1_a1=3828JD8991B%28ENG%29.pdf LG LFC25760SB Support Manuals Warranty More LG

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power From The House

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

There is a little door set in the botton right of the front of the machine. Flip the door open, the filter is behind it (It unscrews).

Can't recall if this model has a little drain pipe that you pull out do drain off any dregs of water in the filter. If it doesn't, I usually pull the machine out from the wall and tip it back a little so the water in the filter doesn't pour out when I unscrew it. HEAVY MACHINE, if you are going to tip it backwards, have someone help you do this!

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It could be the garage door motor that is acting up. Try closing it with the button in the garage. If that's not the case, you may need a different garage door opener.

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.@(((

The wire has rubbed somewhere and is shorted to ground. Replace the wire from the door switch to the light, replace the fuse with one of the correct amperage and it should work. Disconnect the battery while you are replacing the wire.

You have a bad main board with a relay stuck shut. Call an LG dealer and ask them if there is a service bulliten on your model. If there is, your parts are free.

try to replace the bulb/ door switch

The switch is behind the front panel - to remove it, unplug the machine and:

1. Open the panel where the drain filter is (lower left side of the front panel)
2. Remove screw visible inside this area and remove the white molded plastic - also remove the screw behind that plastic.
3. Open the washer door and remove the spring loaded wire around the door gasket. Carefully pull the door gasket away from the panel push inside and then reclose the door.
4. Remove the detergent drawer and the two screws visible behind it.
5. Pull the top of the electronics panel away from the machine and lift up - place on top of machine or hook it out of the way
6 Remove the 4 screws that are visible holding the front panel to the machine. Left the entire front panel up about 2 inches and swing to the right

The wire connecting the panel to the machine on the right leads to the switch and door lock mechanism

The control board relay switch for the light bulb stuck in the on position and needs to be replaced along with the light cover and housing.  There is also a replacement light harness that has a high limit switch to shut off the lights if this happens again.  LG knows about this problem and if you call LG customer service, they will grant a one time warranty extension to take care of this problem.