Nor-Lake Freezer Norlake Refrigeration 6' x 6' Kold Locker Walk-In Freezer - 6' 7'' High w/Floor - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You should check for air leaks around the door gasket or any other openings in the compartment such as where pipes or wiring is going through the wall. It sounds like a moisture problem from moisture being drawn into the compartment pass door gaskets or access holes.

The pressure control will be fed a live from the thermostat and feed a live to the compressor relay

if the temp is 10f compressor is fine, just need a tune up, call a specialist.

The thermostat sensor is located in the top rear of the interior of the unit, if you locate the dial to change temps on the inside of the unit, the sensor is attached to it, you may have to pull your fridge apart to get to it, but it can be done.

Regards Russ

Must be kept at 0*F (-18*C) minimum

Helloo roger.....Freezers have a thermostat to maintain the proper temperature. These are usually very simple devices. When the freezer reaches the set temperature, the thermostat interrupts the electricity flow to the compressor, which stops cooling. Set your freezer to a colder and colder setting until it doesn't cut out. If you are already at the coldest setting, your only option would be to change the freezer's internal thermostat to one that has a lower cut out capability. Most refrigeration technicians could find the thermostat for you to do this. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Change the defrost timer.

Normally freezers are kept at zero. Most health departments will not allow the temp to be higher than plus 10. If you want to store ice cream, you need to be at minus 10 degrees to minus 15 degrees.

let me know if I can be of any further help.

in most cases its the defrost element as the other units last much longer unless the fan has become jammed this happens when people toss meat hard against the back wall if you know how to do polaity test using a multimeter do test on defrost element its not a thermistate as new age frezzers dont use them they use timers and plastic channels to curculate cool air

good luck need more addvice email me

Hi John,

The symptoms do indicate a failed thermostat.

I am not sure where you could get a thermostat for this freezer but I would try contacting Norlake first. They may guide you to who has one or maybe they can sell you one. If it is a direct replacement it is something that you can do yourself.

http://www.norlake.com/

It is probably no more risky than drinking water from a clear running stream. The frost is formed from water vapour so as it is formes it is pure. I suppose it then depends on how old it is and what has come into contact with it. It should be ok though.

Look for thermostat. Usually located near the unit inside the conditioned space where the fans are.

Normally, freezers are at 0 degrees. If you have ice cream, shoot for -10 degrees.

hope this is what you are looking for.

THE FLAPER IS NOT GOING SHUT
REPLACE THE PLUNGER

Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the parts.
Your defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 components, 2 of which are located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Remove the rear panel. There is a cooling coil, that has a calrod heating element that runs along it's bottom. As well there is a defrost thermostat ( a small round 1" disk) which is located on the top of the same coil. Both should be checked with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The heater should read no more than 30 ohms, the thermostat ( IT MUST STILL BE COLD BELOW 30 DEGREES) should read zero ohms. Note: The heater rarely fails, the thermostat has a high failure rate.

The third item is a timer, or a solid state adaptive defrost control. Depending on age, and model, it is located , behind the kick plate on the bottom front.
Or, in the fresh food compartment on the roof.
If it is a timer, you can turn the timer shaft when the machine is running until the machine shuts off. With it still turned on, wait 40 minutes.
If the machine turns itself back on, the timer is O.K. if not, the timer is bad, and needs replaced.
If the Main heater checks O.K. and it has a solid state control, then replace the thermostat in the freezer compartment, and the solid state board.

Below is an excellant tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml
Thank you for using FixYa

I assume there is no manual control for setting temp. so the thermal sensor or control circuit has failed and it is just staying at its maximum.  You will probably get more help from the manufacturer but their website is somewhat disjointed; looking for contact info for your product ends at one point and then shifts to their scientific product line.
The only general contact info I found is here:
Nor-Lake 
You will in any case need to have the correct model number at hand since the subject line doesn't sound like your freezer. 

Are you frosting up at the condensor or did you mean the evaporator? If its the condensor then make sure the coils are clean. Still then you will need a tech to look at the seale system. If its the evaporator and the heater is ok then it could be the timer or the terminator on the compressor. Most of the time its the timer.

I've worked on freezers for over 20 years and have never heard of a compressor going bad because the door was left open. think about a second opinion.
Also, has the cooling coil inside the box developed and frost or ice build up? If so, it needs to be completely defrosted. If you defrost it manually, use a hose hooked up to hot water. Kill all power and hose all build up off. Remove the sheet metal housing ends and be sure there is no ice inside there too. I would go in this direction first.
IN order to kill a compressor under this condition, something really strange must have happened as anything is possible in a refrigeration system. Good luck and hope this helps.

Normally, freezers have electric heaters that are energized during the defrost cycle. Once out of the defrost cycle, the refrigeration system comes on but the fans do not. This allows the evap to cool off and to prevent circulating warm air from the heaters. This is controlled by a fan delay switch. It is a small, round device that can have 2, 3, or 4 wires going to it, depending on the manufacturer. It is usually clipped on to the end of the evap coil on one of the "U" bends, near the top, inside one of the ends of the evap. Usually where all the electrial components are located. It come in several variations, but it's main function is to prevent the fans from energizing too early. Usually does not bring fans on till evap hits 20 or so degrees. Check this out and get back to me.

Your door seal is not sealing properly . Check and use a hairdryer to soften the seal and the magnetic portion should seal itself against the cabinet .