Nor-Lake Freezer Norlake Refrigeration 6' x 6' Kold Locker Walk-In Freezer - 6' 7'' High w/Floor - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It may just be low on freon (coolant) or you may have a bad compressor, or some back switches to the compressor.

As long as the temp. stays around 5+ or 5- of 0 degrees everything should be okay.

The defrost system has failed and is not de-icing the coil or, the door is not sealing tight or too much time open allowing excess humidity to enter the chamber, thereby overcoming the capabilities of the defrost system. The system has a defrost timer someplace, check to see if it is running. If not, you can probably advance it into a defrost cycle with a screwdriver. (turn the shaft slowly until a click is heard and the system stops) Allow 20 or 30 minutes for the coils to defrost, and restart with the screwdriver if it has not took off on it's own. If the timer is found not running, replace it.

Yes,It will work just as it should.


Please rate this a fixya

Hi, If you had ice, there is a drain plugged in the freezer. If you had a frost build up, there is a problem with the automatic defrost.

I can help in either case. Please let me know if you need more assistance.
Thakns
Vic

yes. it will just take more time to cool to room temperature.

The factory presets your temperatures to the MID / MID setting of 0ºF for the freezer.

The door frame heater is probably damaged and grounded. Unfortunately, it is still energized causing less than the entire heater being utilized which will cause an extremely hot condition. I would look at replacing it. It is a pain to do but with some patience, it can be done.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Depends on the product you want to keep in the freezer. Usually you want to try and stay between 0 and +10 degrees for most items. Ice Cream must be -10 degrees minimum. Any warmer and it won't keep. Hope this helps.

Good Luck

check out the defrost timer it sound like its in defrost. if that is not whats wrong then you can checkout the refrigerant by looking at the sight glass on the liquid line. It dhould not have any boubbles in it and if there is then your low on charge, n if threr isn't then you whille probebly be better off calling a service company out to repair the unit.

YES GOOD ADVISE . ALWAYS START WITH THE BASICS. IS EVAPORATOR COIL CLEAN AND CLEAR? ALL EVAP FANS RUNNING? DRAIN PAN CLEAR? IS STAT CALLING FOR COOL? IS OUTDOOR COND COIL CLEAN? IS OUTRDOOR FAN RUNNING WITH NO PLAY IN BUSHING? DO RUN AND START CAPS TEST GOOD? DOES CONTACTOR LOOK GOOD? THEN TRY TO CATCH UNIT WHEN TEMP IS ABOVE DESIRED SETTING. FIRST TEST STAT. IS IT OPEN OR CLOSED? IF BOX IS HOT AND ITS OPEN THEN PROBLEM IS STAT. IF STAT IS CLOSED AND OUTDOOR FAN IS NOT RUNNING THEN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY OVERHEATING WHEN FAN QUITS. CHECK FOR VOLTS TO FAN GOT VOLTS? FAN IS BAD. NO VOLTS? TRACK BACK TO SOURCE OF POWER ( CONTACTOR) AN R22 BOX AT 52 PRESS IS NOT TO BAD ON START UP ON A HOT BOX BUT COULD BE HIGH ON 502 408 OR R12 STUFF TYPE OF REF IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK

WALK INS HAVE TWO THINGS THAT SHORTEN DEFROST OR MAKE THEM LONGER. IF ALL THE ICE IS BEING CLEARED BY THE HEATERS IN THE COIL THEN IT WILL KICK OUT AUTOMATICALLY IF DEFROST CONTINUES AND THE COIL GETS TO HOT DUE TO AN OVERTEMP SENSOR ON THE COIL. HOWEVER IT WILL STAY IN A DFROST AS LONG AS IT IS PROGRAMMED TO UNLESS THAT SENSOR TRIPS. SO...... LOOK AT THE TIME CLOCK AND SEE WHAT LENGTH OF TIME ITS IS SET FOR. USUALLY A DEFROST CYCLE WILL BE SET FOR 30 TO 40 MINUTES. IF SET TO LONG THEN DEFROST GOES TO LONG AND ONLY COMES BACK ON WHEN SENSOR TRIPS. ADJUST CLOCK TIME TO 30 MINUTES OR 5 MINUTES LESSS THAN ITS SET AT RUN A FEW DAYS AND OBSERVE ICE FORMATION ETC. CLOCK MAY BE STICKING AND MAY NEED A LIGHT DRENCHING OF THE GEARS WITH A LIGHT OIL. TURN IT AROUND A FEW TIMES TO SPREAD OIL AROUND. YOU COULD RUN A CHECK ON THE CLOCK BY SETTING THE TIME TO TWO MINUTES AND GENTLY TURN IT TILL ITS CLICKS INTO A DEFROST AND WAIT . IT SHOULD COME OUT OF DEFROST AND BACK INTO REFRIGERATION IN 5 MINUTES. IF DEFROST IS SET WAY TO LONG THEN IT HAS BEEN RELYING ONLY ON THE TEMP OVERTEMP SENSOR TO TERMINATE DEFROST. IF IT FAILS THEN THE EXCESSSIVE DEFROST WILL CONTINUE TILL PRODUCT MELTS. SETTING THE CLOCK TO A SHORTER TIME SHOULD CORRECT BUT THE OVERTEMP SENSOR IS PROBABLY BAD . AVAILABLE FROM MOST COMMERCIAL REF REPAIR COMPANIES. OR YOU MAYBE CAN ORDER FROM MANUFACTURER AND CHACK EXACT OEM PART WIRE FOR WIRE ETC. LABEL ALL WIRES . TURN OFF POWER, TEST IT. MAKE NOTES.

Check the evaporator coil for frost buildup on the back. Check for frost on the suction line, the biggest line returning to the compressor. If frost is evident at these places you have a defrost system problem. These systems have a defrost timer that defrosts the coil at preset times. Check the timer for proper operation by marking the position of the dial and check back to see if it changes. If it does not change position the timer motor is most likely bad. If the dial is not rotating automatically you can manually turn the dial in the direction of the arrow and put it through a defrost cycle.

If your products are already in the frozen state the answer is yes, you can make an immediate transfer. Normally a couple of hours run to allow the temperatures to stabilize is sufficient. The cool down run time also insures the the unit is functioning properly. If you plug it in and transfer the products right away make frequent checks to insure proper operation.

try this link
www.fixya.com/support/t325008-ge_gss22jfmcww_side_side_refrigerator - 28k -

Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.

• possible causes:

1. bad defrost timer/control board
2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
3. bad thermo switch in freezer

If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items. 

• if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 
  

Mike  


these are the usual suspects.


heater in the back wall of the freezer:



thermal switch also in the back wall of the freezer

The defrost timer is normally located in the area of the temperature controls. There is a clutch head knob on the timer which can be rotated clockwise very slowly until a click is heard. Wait 30 minutes and defrost should take place in that time period. If defrost does occur and the system does not restart cooling, rotate the knob more and you will hear a second click and the compressor should start .
If the system restarts in the cooling mode in 18-22 minutes the defrost timer is good and the problem is more than likely in the defrost heater circuit.

They are usually mounted on the front panel of the evaporator or mounted on the wall behind the evaporator.There is a possibility that the temp. control is at the condenser,and the sensing bulb was slipped thru the wall.Look for the bulb at the back of the evaporator and follow the cap tube.

Yes if the evaporator drain is blocked or not attached correctly it causes the humidity to remain in the refridgerator. Just opening the door will cause the warm are to enter and cause the symtoms of rain if the water is not taken out the drain properly.Hope this helps JT

L1 goes to 1-2 on Clock, L2 or Neutral to N on Clock, Defrost heater to 3 on Clock, Defrost Limit/Fan Delay to X on clock