20 Most Recent GE Adora (DSF25KGTBG) Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

blow compressor and cooling fan

One thing you can do is make sure condenser coils have plenty of area around them (nothing lying against refrigerator) to prevent air flow. If possible vacuum and clean condenser coils and make sure freezer door is completely closed.

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. I see this problem all of the time. That is why I recommend either a top freezer or side x side. 1.) You have guide rails on drawer type freezers. These become iced up to the point you can not open the door. If you try to force the door you may damage it. 2.) If the door is dot tightly sealed, condensate will get in the freezer. Hot goes to cold like a magnet. Hot air and cold air equals condensate. 3.) How do you fix the problem? Unfortunately, you can not get to the door guide rails to clean the ice of from them. You are going to have to unplug your unit to let the rails defrost to the point where you can pull the drawer. This can take up to 24 hours depending how badly the guide rails are iced up.

• Possible solenoid fill valve failure
• Possible failure of the mold heater, not allowing the ice to be removed from the mold.
• Possible failure of the mold heater thermostat

It is time to change the water filter. See page 6 of your owners manual. If you don't have your copy of the manual, click here. http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-60412-1.pdf

Did the Part numbers match exactly (between the old and new parts)? Is there anyway you could have crossed and wires? It's possible that the controller board is malfunctioning, I don't have schematics to give you any additional info.

there is a switch that opens a solenoid on back of fridge , check solenoid is working , Current has to be applied to solenoid = be careful if you don't know what your doing .

The wire arm that travels up ad down when it dumps ice. Lift the arm to the horizontal position and it should stay there. The ice maker is now off. Push the arm back down and the ice maker is on.

Did you recently move the fridge? One possibility is that the supply line in the back of the fridge is kinked. Usually it is coiled so you can move the fridge out and back damage but if it gets kinked, it would limit the water supply like a hose does when kinked. Also, the supply line is usually tapped from under the sink. Make sure the valve that supplies the line (usually 1/4 inch line) is fully opened. If that fails to help, then you're back to the solenoid valve for water that is not fully opening. Should give a solid clunk when actuated. G

You may have lost a thermal fuse.