20 Most Recent GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

no shouldn't have to do this,are you installing part WR51X10101 heater?if so have you ever had to replace the motor board?do this when you're in the freezer go on top of the evaporator coil,look at the sensor or thermistor same thing,it looks like a white bullet part wr55x10025,look at it,if it has a black ring around it you have to change it,ge had problems with these thermistors,also everything on this fridge runs through the mother board open up the back cover and look at the board if you don't have 7 black relays in the board you have to get the newest board in there,this could be taking out your heater, board part wr55x10942p go here look at picture,if you don't have all the relays on left bottom side get a new board if sensor has black ring replace that too.i've never had to replace a heater again on a fridge and not that soon,make sure no wires are shorting out anywhere that could take out the heater https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Board/WR55X10942P/4512753?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=wr55x10942 also i have a diagram of the board it shows you what's on the board if you look at j11 and j9 these are the connections for the defrost heater,the j8 is for compressor so if you jump out j9 and j11 the heater will come on and no compressor with the gray wire connector removed from the board. https://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/4482598198/sizes/o/in/photostream/ and i have another site that shows you everything about the board that's very helpful https://www.scribd.com/document/243353634/GE-Electronic-Refrigerator-AC-Diagnostics-Manual if your board is the older board i would call ge first,tell them what's been happening and i've seen them send parts to people for free or short money,it's worth a call all they can say is no we can't help you or they could help you out, i'd call.can you do me a favor i've answered a few peoples questions and haven't heard back from them only like 2 people out of like 50 can you just let me know you got this and let me know how you make out thanks and i hope this helps you out.that ge diagnostics manual shows you alot of good stuff.make sure all the wires are in good shape that go to the heater,change out the thermistor also there's a t-stat on top of coil i would change out the t-stat and thermistor if something is bad it could be keeping the heater on longer than it should be and short living it,any wire connections that you have cover them with sealant if you have wire connectors anywhere in there put sealant in there so no water can get into wires and check the board.good luck hope this helps you.

This is the fan motor making noise but the fan motor is probably ok. The main board supplies voltage to the motor and can cause it to make strange noises.

How To Replace the Compressor Relay The compressor relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay is located in the terminal box which on the side of the compressor.
Before replacing the compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.


Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled "B") and the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.


Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.

Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector for corrosion. If it is corroded it should be cleaned or replaced
Reattach the wire to the new compressor relay and press the relay back onto the compressor terminals. Replace the terminal cover box and plug in the refrigerator.

replacing evaporator on ge arctica

Best temperature for frig. is 40-45degrees F.

Most likely you need to replace the water valve first try running at least a gallon water through it to flush it out if that doesn't work new valve is needed

try changing your thermostat

Defrost on most units works like this. An electric wire heater is embedded in the cooling coil where the air is cooled. A timer periodically shuts off the refrigerator and turns on this electric heater coil which melts the frost off the coil. The water from this defrost collect s in a trough below the coil and drains down thru tubes into a shallow plastic tray under the unit. The water does not collect there but is evaporated over time by the hot air that blows over top of the water by the fan that comes back on when the refrigerator returns to cooling cycle. This is the fan that sucks air from the room over the condenser coil under the fridge to make the refrigeration work. The air is warm after passing over the condenser coil and then the air passes over the water tray. You can feel the warm air returning back into the room if you out your hand down near the floor.

Check the heater coil in rear of freezer. Mine was burned out. Letting ice build up on the cooling fins. Replaced with new type double heater coil and fixed proble. You'll have to remove the cover off rear wall of freezer section to access it.

This is from the GE Appliance "Knowledge Database" Web site:

Refrigerator - Explanation Of Red Glow

In a no frost refrigerator, the defrost timer activates defrost heaters in the evaporator section (rear of freezer) which heat up and melt the frost off the evaporator coils. This process lasts for approximately 25-45 minutes and usually happens up to twice a day.

During this time, there will be no running sounds, no fan noise, and you may hear water dripping or sizzling as it hits the heaters. On side by side models, you may even be able to see an orange glow at the bottom of the freezer.

This is normal.