20 Most Recent Amana ALW880WH Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Your mixer value.

Sounds to me like the belt has either came off or has broken. You can remove the front lower panel to see if the belt is still intact.To remove, put a hand on each side of the panel toward the top. Pull toward you, the top of the panel will un-clip and pull out. Then just pick up on the panel and set aside. Now look for the belt. Pull on it and make sure it's tight. If not you will need to reinstall it of if broken, replace. Good luck.

The 3 likeliest causes of your problem are:

1. Bad pressure switch (water level control)-It may react to your straw but the range it finally kicks off is higher than the highest possible water level.
2. Bad sensing line-The plastic tube may have a pinhole leak caused by abrasion while your suspension system was out of order or it may just leak out the air. Place a small screw operated hose clamp on the hose where it attaches to the pressure switch. Place a finger over one end of the plastic hose and blow in the other as you submerge the hose under water to check for leaks. Replace if necessary.
3. Clogged reservoir at tub end of sensing line-clean out with thin blade screwdriver. Sometimes grease or undissolved detergent accumulates in this area and blocks the pressure from sending a proper signal.

One of the above three should resolve your problem. Obviously, replace the pressure switch as a last resort after checking steps 2 and 3.

Good Luck

is the lid up? washers won't drain if the lids up...

Dirt in your solenoids may be a problem. But other than that it could be bad solenoids in general. It could also very well be that the unit that senses the water level has a part broken. On the inside there is a tube that connects to the tub. When you add water it increases the pressure in the tube and signals the shutoff. Sometimes the connections on this tube go bad.. or the tube itself gets a hole.

Easy way to tell. Start the unit with the on/off switch. Wait a few seconds then turn it off again. If the water flow doesn't stop you're most likely looking at a solenoid problem. If the water flow stops when you turn the switch off then you're most likely looking at a problem with the water level sensor.

id start with the start capacitor first. but ive seen a bad pump lock up a unit too. motor switch could be bad if the capacitor does not fix

I just fixed this problem on my GE washer that overflowed earlier into my hallway and living room. The fix required removing the tube from its connection at the outer tub and cleaning out some residue that was preventing air from moving to the sensor at the top of the machine at the control panel. No tools were needed other than a large steak knife to undo the clips to remove the front panel of the machine and a small flat head screw driver that I used to clean out the plastic pressure hose.

The good news is that even if this had not worked and the sensor/switch needed to be replaced, the part is available for replacement at the local hardware superstore and a few online outlets for around thirty dollars. Replacement of the switch looks to be relatively simple by disconnecting the existing wiring housing and replacing with a new part.

There are several detailed diagrams available online by doing a search for your product/ model number.

Be sure to check the hose before replacing the pressure sensor/switch- this will save time and money.

Good luck!

actually sounds like fabric softener residue with dirt mixed in...it's almost like a wax if thats it. probably just have to clean it regularly..good luck! :)

take the front panel off. some of them have 2 screws at the bottom left and right side. Some of them you need to take a putty kinife and run across the lid and the front panel and find the clips there are two. push in and lift the lid. then remove I believe it's a 5/16 bolt to remove the front panel. You will then be able to see where the leak is comeing from. It could be just as simple as a hose or pump. But if it is leaking where the transmission meets the tub then that will be major surgury for someone who has never done that before. Does it sound really loud while it is spinning like a train is in your house? please let me know what you find and if you need any other help

your first step would be go and buy a new valve. by that way, buy a roll of teflon tape as well (the white, very thin one). then turn off your main water valve and open up one working valve to release the pressure then take a bucket and place it under the valve to replace now screw off the old valve. remeber hwo it was fitted. now take some of the teflon tape and wind it arround the new valves mounting thread. this will do the sealing, so the water does not take its way thru the mounting. now screw in the new valve. pull it tight. take a second view wether you did it right. keep the bucket under the valve open main water valve. check your new valve. everything sealed? water running when open? YES? Great! You did it. dont forget to remove the bucket, you are done

Hi, Check the belt first. Remove the lower front panel and see if the belt is ok. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Thankx
Vic

that is a pricey repair.not an easy repair.your best bet is to buy a new machine.

You start with $150 worth of special tools for the job available through any appliance parts dealer.

Check the timer, which is behind the knobs, and check also the power supply. If both work, then move ontothe relay, if still no avail go to the computer board

I would check and make sure the lid is not bent or bowed. If the middle part of the lid is too far down when closed, the machine thinks it's open and wont run an agitate or spin. If it is bent, just bend it back for a quick fix.

There is a solenoid control valve on all washing machines, located where the water hoses enter the machine. If you have a rubber mallet, you can whack the machine gently with the mallet. If the problem is resolved, it was just a stuck valve. If not, then you likely will need to replace the whole solenoid valve control. Typically there are controls for each water supply.

The overload protector is in the motor. Once it heats up, it trips. You likely have something not moving to cause it to trip. Pull your washer forward and tilt it back to about a 45 degree angle. (it will rest against the wall behind it instead of falling forward) Remove the belt and rotate all 3 pulleys to make sure they are moving freely. If the pump pulley (the one on the right hand side)doesn't rotate, you likely have a forign object in there or just a bad pump. If the transmission pulley (the large one in the middle) doesn't rotate, check for forign objectes between the tub and backet. If the one on the left doesn't rotate, it's time for a new motor.

ck belt or replaced belt is designed to slip to a point if belt grabs too quickly the tub rpm come up to fast not giving tub time to drain down far enough to prvent climbing over the side also be sure drain hose is not plugged reducing water flow to drain

You probably burnt the belt. Take the front panel off, two screws at the bottom and let the motor cool off.

Increase the water level and then turn it to spin. see if it pumps out.

The belt will need to be replaced.