Maytag MAH8700A Front Load Washer - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.

Cleaning a pump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.

Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

I am not an expert but had a washer that wasn't draining.Did you check the filter to make sure nothing is blocking it? We removed the bottom panel to find the manual. The filter on our model was just inside there, too. It simply twisted off, and there were socks, pens, coins, etc. that has jammed the drain filter. When we did this, a ton of water drained out, so have a ton of towels and/or a wet vacuum on-hand if you try this.

3E == overcurrent detected at the motor. Open the control panel, there should be a tech sheet in there that explains how to put the machine into service mode (press chime and extra rinse keys for three seconds) and what to do while in service mode to track this down. Once on service mode, you can cycle through and retrieve all diagnostic codes... and lots of other stuff that'll help you track this down.You can also go ahead and check out the windings on the motor. Unplug harness connector and test from wire insertion side. Pin #1 and Pin #2 of CN9 == 11.6 ohmsPin #1 and Pin #3 of CN9 == 11.6 ohmsPin #2 and Pin #3 of CN9 == 11.6 ohms

Yes maam, I sympathize with the situation. The "nd" code on the Neptune is usually a pump related issue. Check the drain line for kinks first, and then the pump will have to be checked. No matter how diligent we are, inevitably hard objects like pins, coins, etc., make it into the washer. Remove the hoses from the pump and using a flashlight, look into the suction port and check for any obstructions. Also check the pump impeller for any broken/missing blades and ensure that the impeller spins freely. If any blades are broken/missing or if you cannot get the impeller to spin freely, the pump is defective. Hard objects that make it to the pump can damage the impeller blades on the pump. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

there is a way to open but laws fobid me posting it on here as you could be electricuted if done wrong as i cant be sure the power is disconected from the mains

Hello, Click this link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-MAH8700AWW/3048/0153200?searchedModel= MAH8700A&blt=This is the schematic for your entire machine. You would first remove the top panel by unscrewing the screws that hold the panel to the cabinet on the back of the machine. You would next slide the top panel towards the rear of the machine and remove the top panel from the machine. You would next unscrew the screws holding the control in place and remove the control as well. After you remove the control you would next remove the screws holding the from panel to the cabinets frame. Open the door and there are a couple screws to unscrew on the same panel where the door seats. Some do also remove the door as well due to awkwardness and weight issues. You would then remove the rubber boots attaching retaining ring using a flat screwdriver to pry over the ring over the front panel lip. Unseat the rubber boot termed as bellows and move the front panel diagnonally towards you. You can then access the door switch assembly and replace the assembly. When putting the unit back together install the front panel screws and the screws along the inside of the door before seating the bellows and the retaining ring. The retaining ring is the most difficult part of this job and reseating the ring and the bellows is the most difficult of this job and may require an extra set of hands to hold the ring on one side while using a screwdriver or putty knife to work the ring back on to its properly seated position. If you have any further questions message me back.I await your reply Thank you,Rick

According to the trouble shooting manual that came with my Maytag MAH8700A, code 2E refers to "Voltage for motor control bus is under specified limit." It states that the action to be taken is to "replace motor control board."

If the machine didnt finish the cycle due to the pump being clogged the door will remained locked also if the lock mechanism went bad, the machine will stay locked. Remove the top of the machine by taking the screws from the top back out. Once removed look down the right hand side and you'll see the lock mechanism, usually with a plastic tab you pull to manually release the lock. On some machines it maybe be required and sometimes easier to remove the bottom kickplate and access the lock assembly from there If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(pre-typed 'cos I don't type THIS fast- not in 5 minutes!)

Many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Clean out the drain filter located inside the bottom compartment.

Hello,

The ND error code means NO DRAIN. ,

The usually reason the door remains locked once the cycle is over is because the filter screen on the drain pump is blocked so not all the water could drain out...the door lock is tied into the pump and until the pump tells the control board that the wate r is out the door will not unlock. This tip i wrote will show ya how to take apart the washer to clean the filter on the pump.
http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10121384-check_when_duet_washer_door_locked_after



GENE

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,


Sorry but with internal leaking it is virtually impossible for anybody on this FixYa forum to guess remotely what is wrong with your washer- apart from the fact that it appears to need a new front door seal.
You really need to call in a service engineer.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

ok ,,take your time and get a flash light,,check the rubber gasket around front of tub for pen hole...giood luck,,if you dont find leak repost..and we will got to another step..pull on rubber tub gasket while searching..

Hello, You may have not have had to replace the pump in all actuality. The ND error code can be caused by anything caught in the entire drain area which means from the port hole that comes out of the outter tub you would need to remove the hose that connects to this spot and then to the pump. Also you would remove the drain line after the pump as well and assure in both areas that there are no obstructions. If you still have the ND error code after you have assured you have no blockage in either of the above mentioned areas message me back for further diagnosis. Also after you clear the clogged area make sure you unplug the unit for 7-10 minutes this causes the control to reset which is easier then you haveing to go into diagnositic and clear the error code. I await your reply Thanks Rick

Hi

You are right; error code dc means that it never exceeded 400rpm due to an unbalanced load i.e. it detected unbalanced load during final spin which prevented the spinner from exceeding 400rpm. Please do these checks:

1. Check to make sure the door is fully closed.
2. Check for water left inside the washer.
3. Perform Board Output Test or Quick Spin Test. (Before test, make sure that the tumbler is empty.) If it doesn't tumble after the test above, check unbalanced load scenario, Main Control Board, and motor.
4. Check for loose connections at Machine Control Board, Pressure Switch, Motor, Tach Harness and Motor Control. (CN8, CN9, CN3). Refer to the component testing procedure.
5. Check motor winding resistance:

CN9 pins 1 & 3=11.6ohms ±7%,

Pins 1 & 2=11.6ohms ±7%,

Pins 2 & 3=11.6ohms. ±7%.

Hope this helps...please post back with its complete model no for further assistance.

Daniel

Are you getting any error codes on the display?

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

E3 is a locked hall sensor fault and is displayed when the machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response and the motor won't move. You can check for any loose wire connections before replacing the motor control board/motor. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Your water inlet valve is leaking and will need to be replaced. I looked up your model number and it uses water valve part # 34001248

If an "L" appears upon the electronic display area of your Maytag washer, it is indicative of the washing machine's lid failing to lock properly. When an "L" error code appears, it is normally caused by one of two issues, a faulty lid locking switch, which is designed to hold the lid securely closed during the wash cycle, or a faulty lock solenoid sensor, which is designed to display a warning signal that the lid is not locked securely. Replacement of the needed part should correct the issue and the error code should disappear.

If the issue persists, there may be an issue within the machine's electronic display board that should be investigated by a Maytag approved repair technician.

Hope helps.

It could be one of two things. If the water runs into the machine even when the washer is turned off, you need a new water valve. If the water only comes in when called for then doesnt stop you need a new pressure switch and possibly a new pressure switch hose