Maytag MAH8700A Front Load Washer - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

does it sound like it wants to drain?
if the pump does run. you would have to remove the pump and clean it out. its possible that the impellars on the pump could be broken, meaning you would need a new pump. but usually its change, or small objects jammed in the pump impellar.

Slow down the water flow from the tap( Turn the tap on by about 1 or 2 turns). I have the same problem. the dispenser system cann't handle the volume supplied by the house system.

Torn door gasket.

follow the discharge hose into the washer body --- the trap will be at the housing the hose connects to --- not a big job. be sure to unplug the machine and hand bail the standing water out of the basket. keep a sponge and rags with a pail for the water in the trap and hose. no special tools, but it will be metric

"nd" is code for "difficult draining" installed a new water pump $60, problem solved.

Hi there,
OE-pump blocked. Disconnect the power before attempting any work. Use of an RCD (plug in power breaker) is recommended.
Disconnect pump from sump hose and check for obstruction in either item. Pump removal: power off, remove cover, locate pump, (attached to other end of drain pipe).undo 2 wiring connections, 2 hose connections, and pump mounting screws. Remove pump chamber - some are held in with screws, others clip into place. Check for foreign objects round the impeller. If pump chamber is clear, may be a fault with the pump motor - in which case, replace.
Also check the filter - generally located behind a panel at the foot of the machine.Some are obvious like little square hatches and some are hidden behind the trim panel at the foot of the machine. Once panel is removed the filter should be visible. Its generally a circular plastic fitting which unscrews in an anticlockwise direction. Some hotpoint, indesit and ariston filters are located in the big black sump hose (the one that leaves the bottom of the outer drum and connects to the pump). Remove the back cover, locate hose, remove the tensioner clip by squeezing the tabs together, remove the hose, take out filter and clean.

post further comment for more help....

Check the lid switch first, if that is not the problem, check timer control board and motor control unit.

try wikianswer.com I had a simular problem with a electric stove and the solved it.

it may be a pressure switch fault. Remove the top cover (lid) and look for a round object with a small rubber pipe coming of it and a electrical connector with 2 or 3 wires, replace this part.

just unplug it to try and reset it. should show some code

Check for loose connections at pressure switch,
motor, tach harness, motor control and machine
control board terminal connections. These are common problems that will induce this issue with your washer.

This is joyce
He is right the Jets are probl stoped up with mold,
you need to take drawer out look to top of machine where water comes into drawer to dispense to your detergetnt, and see if their is mold, if so take squirt bottel full of bleach and squirt it up on the mold and let sit a while and then take tooth brush and scrub off as good as possible, run one cup bleach in machine with out any clothes . on hot cycle. do this 2 times see if this helps .
let me know. it can only help cant hurt.
willl make machine smell better, and never shut door to front loader completly shut, it needs air to dry or else it will mold.
thanks
joyce

This is joyce
I am assuming that the smell is mold that is what happens in these units, the door gets closed and they capture the moisture inside and it molds around the door and in the dispenser, you have to run about 1 cup of bleach a month in them to keep them clean and in the dispenser you have to spray them with pure bleach with a spray bottle and take tooth brush and scrub the top to remove mold or it will take over. make sure their are no clothes in waher whenn you run this cycle.
this should solve this problem,
please let me know if this works, it did on mine
thanks
joyce

It sounds like a door switch problem, I have seen where they break loose from mount and door pushes switch inside. or the switch my be faulty and showing open all the time. I think u can reach the switch through the top of the washer two screws in the back will allow the top to slide back and up to remove.

the unit is trying to drain...clogged drain hose..jammed pump..defective pump

have you check your floor..if floor is weak the hold area around unit will vibrate,,,easy test,,,stand in front of unit and bounce your body up and down things moving,,,weak floor,,cheapest fix..get a piece of pluss carpet and make 1 piece over all for legs,,when unit settles in thick carpet that will stop bouncing and noise

to much detergent...with theses unit you must use he or low suddsing detergent..take half the wet soapy clothes out then start unit..sud level must fall...

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

ND - no drain. Mine JUST DID THAT an hour ago. Wouldn't unlock the door, wouldn't drain, it just hummed. I'm saving money for a trip to florida in two weeks, and I saw our family vacation going down in flames in a hurry. So, I read up, and got brave.

Have a mop and shop vac on hand and ready.

I unplugged it, then removed the access panel on back - two screws, phillips head.

You'll see a grey drain hose connected to a pump, and from the pump to the washer itself, a black hose. Both should have spring clamps on them. Just pinch and voila, they get loose, slide them aside and pull each hose, look for obstructions. Here's why you need the shop vac. All the water in the washer will come out those hoses.

Mine had no obstructions anywhere in either hose. So, I hooked the hoses back up, and tried again. The pump those hoses are hooked to just kept clicking, no drain.

I decided to get crazy and pulled the pump out since it sounded just like when something gets hung in our pool pump's impeller.

There are three bolts there. They take a 1/2" socket. There is a set of wires that plug into it. Unplug those, be careful not to let the end flop down into any water that gushed out earlier.

Still saw no obstructions, and so, I took the pump apart. Three phillips head screws are all that hold the two halves together.

When the pump came apart, out falls a grey Lego block. One of those really flat ones. It was chewed up and roughed up by the impeller. That was what had it hung up.

So. If you've gone so far as to have to take the pump apart, and hopefully found whatever is hung in it, just follow the directions in reverse and put it back together. Once all together and plugged back in (be sure you're not standing in water when you plug it in by the way!) you may want to run the load (or the empty washer if you've pulled all the soggy clothes out) on a rinse and spin only cycle, just to make sure it works.

If it doesn't? It may be time to call a service guy in.

The fabric softner won't dispense and I was told to replace the dispenser unit, is that the solution?