Your washer has a hose that goes from an air dome on the side of the tub to a pressure switch in the console. As water fills the tub air pressure increases to the up the hose to the switch and that is how the switch regulates the amount of water in the tub. More than likely the hose has either come off the switch in the console or the switch has failed. You will need to gain access into the console and check the look for a clear rubber hose that attaches to the back of the water level switch and make sure it is still attached. If it is not reattach it and try it again. Sometimes an out of balance load will cause it to come off. If it is still attached you can remove the hose from the switch and blow through it to make sure it is clear from obstructions. If the hose is clear and detached from the switch you will need to replace the pressure switch. Thanks and hope this helps.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi TK,
I posted this to someone looking to fix a lid switch, so this part is the same. Be sure that the machine is drained first, so to prevent a huge puddle of water on the floor. Keep a bucket nearby as well to drain the pump.
The entire cabinet needs to be removed as follows:
Two screws hold the head onto the cabinet, remove these on either side, only a phillips head screwdriver needed, then pull forward and push back out of the way
You see two metal clips. Make note of how they are inserted. Place the screwdriver into the recess of these, and pull up. Don't lose these, you'll need them
Pull the cabinet towards you and up, releasing the cabinet from the base.
On the front of the machine at the base, you will see the pump. This is held on by two clips, Place a screw driver in front of them and pull them back, releasing the pump. Sometimes they are rusted onto the armature so you can use sometime behind it to pull it off. This is not always the case, but to let you know ahead of time. Check the clamps holding the pump onto the hoses, for this may be the problem or it could be the hose itself. If it is the pump, you will know it, as there will be discoloration around the point of the leak. You can purchase a new pump at a parts retailer in your area.
When the parts are replaced and reset into position, you will re-install the cabinet.
Place the front of the cabinet under the front of the base, then ease it onto the base in the back. If the two prongs on the bottom rear are flattened, you can raise them up with a flat head screwdriver. Lower the holes on the back of the base.
Replace the clips from above back into the top of the cabinet
Replace the head and screw it back on.
You should be ok after that. If you need further clarification, don't hesitate to ask.
Could be a bad clutch/brake mechanism or a bad coupler. This video will show how to repair it. http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic#p/u/0/9K1KHEogf3c
Hello ,
If your machine is basicly just filling with water and then stopping then you would want to check the lid switch in the unit. If on the other hand the unit is agitating but not going into the spin cycle then you would want to check the drive couple in the unit. Here is a basic video on how to check and change the drive couple. If when you check the drive couple you find that it is not broken and the lid switch is working as well message me back for further diagnosis. Heres your video click here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1KHEogf3c Thanks again
Rick
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today. If the unit fills and agitates but wont spin or drain the yourlid switch is bad..Here is a link to order the part and a how to video http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/3949247/547225
Thank You and please ACCEPT my answer and Rate my answer if it was helpful..
Hello, that sounds like you have done all you can and i appriciate a well written question stating exactly what you have already done(some times questions here is "it dont work") so then back to your washer. There are 2 more possiblities 1) the motor capiciator is bad and not giving the motor a bump in power to start it. To check that,its black and round and going to be on inside right side of back panel.To check it use a meter set to HIGH ohms rating.place one meter lead on each of the 2 terminals (each terminal may have 2 wires but only 2 two terminals) and the needle should swing up and drop back if cap. is good and the needle will stay at or near zero if cap. bad. If using digital meter the numbers will constiantly be in motion jumping from 10 thousand to 200 back to 5 thou. and so forth if cap is good and again the display will stay the same and never change if capiciator is bad
If capiciator checks good the motor is going to be the problem
Good luck,i have i have been able to help you fix your washer, Gene
If your washing machine will not fill, only hot or cold will fill or is slow tofill then read these tips. I have covered many of the things that can happen inthese tips...
They were part of the shipping hardware when you machine was new they,the rest of the shipping braces were removed and discarded when it was delivered/brough home but they stay in the base and cause no problem or need to replaced or anything
Hello, when you stated your unit wont go into spin no matter which cycle the unit is on can you hear the motor running in the unit yet the tub is not spining if so then your unit would need to have the drive couple replaced here is a tutorial on how to replace the drive coupler in a washer such as yours click this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc . On the other hand if you did not hear the motor when the unit was supposed to be spinning then you could either have a problem with the motor,the timer, or transmission. Usually it is the drive couple that is the cause in most situations where a unit will not spin. Watch the tutorial and if you have any further questions message me back Thanks Rick
Hello, This video will show you how to open the control panel(and remove cabinet) disregard the cabinet part but it shows how to open the console. To replace the timer,push in timer knob and unscrew knob ina counterclockwise direction and use a small screwdriver behind dial to remove it.under the dial will be the screws the hold timer to console remove those. Good luck i hope this helps, Gene
Does it agitate in the wash cycle?if not, you need to check the "motor coupling" on the unit. Below is a video to show you how.
Here is a kink to the part.
If you are right that the water is running out instead of filling then either the drain pump is bad and not forming a seal or the control panel is telling the drain pump to activate. BUT if you are not hearing the pump running then it is probably bad.
Thanks for choosing FixYa John and welcome. Anytime noise is associated with the spin cycle, it can be traced back to a bad spin bearing or motor drive. Since it is a grinding sound, I would say it is the spin bearing that is your problem, although it could also be the motor drive. None the less, it is one or the other. It will need took apart to determine which of the two it is.
If this is the split agitator (two piece), the top part should not come off without tools. The part of the agitator that receives the fabric softener dispenser has a clear plastic cap that comes off to reveal a bolt. If this is the piece that you have described, something broke.
The bolt in the picture must be removed to release the upper agitator from the machine.
Is this the part that came off? If so, the bolt came off or the upper agitator is broken.
