20 Most Recent Rangemaster 110 (Gas) Kitchen Range - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I found your oven on a site I often use which has electrical diagrams that I can read.I did see that yours is available in both gas and electric.Would you please tell me which one you have?Also,how far off are the temperatures for which you want from what it goes to?Do both sides react the same?For example,set both sides to the same temperature.Do both sides stop working at the same temperature or different ones?If they are different,I would like to know what temp. you set and what each one cut off at,or even if they cut off at the same temp. for that matter.If I can figure this out,you may be able to order the part and fix it.If you bought this in Australia,there should be someone,somewhere who has parts for it unless it is about 15 years old or older.That would make it difficult.I have been to Perth when I was in US Navy and thought it was pretty nice and I would like to see more of Australia someday.I see some of the wildlife there on TV,but there's nothing like in person.Wild budgie flocks.Here we have quaker parrot flocks.Greg

stoves have a pressure regulator as the flex line from the house connects to the stove, it's about 2 inches by 3 inches in dimension and it has a knot in the middle and one to the side of it that is to the front of it that second one you can unscrew and put that knot the other way or upside down, that's the position for natural gas, now some regulators do not have it, in that case get one that can do that,or that is for lp and natural gas. then you must close the air a little bit on all the burners the vent is located as the burner meets the valve that supplies gas to the burners. and that vent is part of the burner.

Will the flame go out if you turn the control knob to the off position?

Sometimes gas cooking control knobs have two seperate types of control in the one knob. One control turn the gas on or off, one adjusts the variable quantity of gas allowed through a gap to your flame jets. Some control knobs can get gummed up and stick a little. The can be fixed by carefully taking apart the control knob, taking note of EXACTLY how everything goes back together and cleaning any gummed up bits. Then reassemble the knob and drizzle soapy water over the control to test for leaks. A leaky gas join blows bubbles and makes noise. Let me know if this fixes the problem.

John

same happened to mine and had to get new clock

What problem are you having?

Try putting your grill on low for 30 minutes to one hour the clock should start to flash then leave to flash for five minutes after which press reset. It worked for me on my rangemaster 110 (gas)

give detailed step by step instructions.

Hi.

Hi regarding the bulb and the wire, and the gas pressure problem due to the defective 'gas tap' (probaby the pressure regulator), if the gas tap is not built in with the appliance, then it is probably a part called pressure regulator, that can be purchased alone from any part seller in Fr. If the gas tap is instead the burner inside the oven call Rangemaster (see below)

If the technician saw a defective burner or pressure regulator, than that is likely the problem. We check the colour of the flame to understand if there are gas mixture or gas pressure problems. Make sure that the temperature probe inside the cavity has also been tested. It must read about 1080 Ohms when you test impedance with a multimeter.

Parts for older appliances from this manufacturer are not available in France but they may be purchased from UK Rangemaster central. They should be able to ship in France.

Here the link Customer Support

Here different reseller distributing Rangemaster parts. Drop them an email:

Rangemaster™ Spare Parts

Currys partmaster.co.uk

Regards.

Ginko

Have you tried performing an ampere test on the ignitor? A usual ignitor draws 3-3.3 amps. When an ignitor gets weak it drops the amount of amperage makeing it harder for the burner to light. If the control does not sense the presence of the proper amperage in some ovens as a safety precaution it will automaticly turn of the flow of gas. This is to prevent your oven building up large amounts of gas on the inside and causeing a fire or worse. Message me back after you perform you ampere test to the ignitor with how much the ignitors are drawing. I await your reply Thanks Rick

Hi there,
Use a screw extractor. The right tool for the job, assuming the screw head is worn but intact, is called a "screw extractor". This is essentially a screwdriver or screwdriver bit which has strong, rough metal threads right on the tip. These are intended to burrow into the metal of the screw head and get stuck there so you can put some torque on it.
Try reading off this thread and see if any tips will work for you:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=96458
Hope this helps!

i used the solution above worked great as i never used the clock anway . but instead of removing the whole hob i simply un screwed the front panel 5 scews. pulled the front panel out about an inch and used a pair of long nose pliers to remove the blue wires cliped them together. then just screwed the panel back took about 5 mins.