Try to remove one of the plastic baffles inside the spin basket. They are held in place by one phillips head screw. If you take that screw out you should be able to slide the baffle toward you and remove it. Sometimes, but not always, in manufacturing they move a little catch to keep the baffle from moving; in that case it will be hard to slide it. If you can get one baffle out, you will have a pretty good size opening to look for your screw.
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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not go to spin or release the door lock if there is water still left inside.
Here are my complete and general pre-typed (!) guidance notes for checking both the drainfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Possibly a broken bracket we see this happen frequently, with this type of model the parts are kinda high for this repair, look at picture in bubble.could be the shocks I don't think so.
Sounds like the water inlet valve is faulty. It the part the allows water to come into the washer. When the washer is turned off or not running, water should not enter the machine.
It's a relatively easy part to replace. Unplug the machine, turn off the water faucets and remove the water supply hoses from the back of the machine. Remove the back panel and disconnect the inlet valve and replace with a new one. Replacement parts should be available at your local appliance repair house or online such as repairclinic.com. Hope this helps you.
Hi, if your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, then you have to check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France
Follow my guidance notes closely but with the dryer on top. Once you have done the washer, you may find that you can do a similar thing with the dryer if it has adjustable feet ;-0)
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice. Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other. Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
depending on the type of motor you have in your unit you will find a start-up capacitor or a centrifugal mechanical start switch, if you have a capacitor type just replacing the capacitor with a known good one should solve the problem, in terms of the mechanical style you will half to disassemble the motor to service this
First check
the door lock-switch assembly as if the control senses that the door is not
closed it won't spin, after this get back to me with its model#.
There is a single screw holding each vane in place: remove it, then pull the vane towards the front of the tub. 2 of the 3 in my machine were stubborn: I pried the stubborn vanes forward by putting the handle of a hammer behind them, then pulling. There are 6 tabs on the bottom of each vane that slip into slots that are cut into the tub.
Based
on the description of the problem, I can deduce that the
spinner support assembly, A.K.A spider assembly, has completely gone
out. This is the three-arm assembly that holds the basket to the shaft. Unlike the basket which is stainless, the spider is made of aluminum
that corrodes with time and usually breaks during the 5th or 6th year of
the machine. You can certainly tell that it is the spinner support if
your washer is at least 5 years old.
The bad news is, the spinner support cannot be purchased separately. It
comes as a complete assembly with the basket which is covered by at
least a 10-year warranty. The most frustrating fact is that the spinner
support is not covered by the same warranty even though they come as an
assembly which costs at least $400, a non-economical repair to invest.
Here
are some videos showing what broken spider assembly looks like and how
it makes the clanking or banging noise when it is completely broken.
