It is the brain of the washer that decides when the spin takes place and how fast - the brain knows how fast the motor is spinning because there is a speed sensor, probably on the rear end of the motor shaft.
There might be bad connections to the speed sensor or it might be broken but if that and the wiring is ok the fault is probably with the controller/brain, though it is possible the brain refuses to do a high speed spin because for some reason it might (mistakenly?) think there is still too much water in the tub.
it could be you have to heavy a load or you do not have the washer level. Most washers have screw out feet that can be adjusted to keep them from shaking so violently the best thing to do is set a lever in different positions and directions on the top and level it completely and see if that does not fix your problem.
Possible that the program controller unit is not outputting or switching the motor at the time of the cycle. Try and check the voltage to the motor at the SPIN cycle, If absent check on the wiring , check for loose or dry joints. If not the program controller is a suspect.
this means that the door is not shut check to make sure the door button is still there its behind the door on the frame you should see a little black button sticking out if its not there you need a new door switch if its there try pushing the door button a couple times really fast sometimes this button gets stuck if that doesnt work its probably your door lock
If the washer fills, agitates but will not spin and drain, then you need to replace the lid switch. Here is a link to the part you need.Here is a video to show you how to replace the switch.
On some Kenmore front load models, if the black gasket around the door opening is unseated (for example, because you drag some heavy wet laundry over it) the door will not engage the lock and stay closed. This is a feature to prevent the washer from leaking when the gasket is not sealed. To fix it, simply reseat the gasket and the door will close and lock.
If your washer doesn't spin, check to see if the clothes have jammed or are unbalanced in the drum before calling a repairperson. Unbalanced clothes will also cause a washer to shudder or "walk." If straightening out the load doesn't stop the washer from shaking, look at the feet underneath and be sure they are properly adjusted to keep the washer sitting level on the floor (you just turn them to move them up or down).
or try to follow this instruction
1. Open the lid and reposition the clothes. Close the lid and retry. The washer may not spin at all if the tub is unbalanced.
2. Examine the lid switch for wear. Replace a worn lid switch by first using a screwdriver to remove the top of the machine. Remove the cabinet holding the old switch in place by unscrewing the two console screws, tilting the console back, removing cabinet clips, and unlocking the lid switch block. Unscrew the mounting screws, and disconnect the ground wires before removing the old switch. Insert the new switch in it's place.
3. Look for excessive glazing or cracks on the sides of the belt. If these signs appear, remove the old belt by tipping the washing machine over on it's side, and unscrew the clamps securing the pump coupling with a screwdriver. Place the new belt over the transmission pulley, and then over the motor pulley's nearest edge, slowly turning the motor pulley to pull the belt around and into the pulley.
4. Replace the washer's motor by firmly grasping on the metal slip-on connectors holding the wires in place, allowing you to pull the connectors apart. Use a screwdriver to unscrew all of the screws holding the motor in place, and remove the old motor. Insert the new motor in its place. Secure the new motor to the machine with screws, and reconnect the motor's wiring harness.
5. Replace the washer's pump by removing the service panel on the back of the machine with a screwdriver and disconnecting the washing machine drain line and the rubber pump outlet hose. Remove the fasteners holding the pump to the bottom of the machine, along with the drive belt from the pulley below the pump. Replace the old pump with a new one, and reinstall the drive belt back on the pulley, reinsert the fasteners and reconnect the rubber pump inlet and discharge lines.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!) It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
First
make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump assembly located inside the
bottom of the unit, after this test the lid switch assembly, you jump it to
test it. If the lid switch is also fine then the control board should be
replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Whirlpool's (Kenmore) 'F20/21' refers to 'control unit failure'. Sorry but this requires a service engineer's attention I suggest but hopefully a reseat of plugs, cables etc will cure.
I do not have the decode for 'F28' but it is likely to be tied up with the others I suspect. Whirpool is not very 'user-friendly' when it comes to service information ;-0(
If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
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Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-
Top catch-
push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.
One of those should enable you remove it
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.
If this does not work, pull out the dispenser drawer far enough to be able to just see the softener tray, select the (final?) rinse and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Check your machine for level. Using a carpenters level check from front to back and side to side. If not level adjust with the adjusters under the corners of the machine. If it is level you will need to check the shock absorbers.http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663122-washer_problems_washer_noise_when Try this link. But be aware that the problem can be caused by an unbalanced large load.and you can stop the washer and redistribute the load and see what happens.
Removing the boot will require that the front panel, door switch and console be removed.
To remove the front panel first remove the three screws securing the toe
panel to the front of the washer and lift the toe panel up slightly
pulling it forward.
Next remove the two screws securing the top front panel to the washer. The front panel can now be removed.
