It is the brain of the washer that decides when the spin takes place and how fast - the brain knows how fast the motor is spinning because there is a speed sensor, probably on the rear end of the motor shaft.
There might be bad connections to the speed sensor or it might be broken but if that and the wiring is ok the fault is probably with the controller/brain, though it is possible the brain refuses to do a high speed spin because for some reason it might (mistakenly?) think there is still too much water in the tub.
On some Kenmore front load models, if the black gasket around the door opening is unseated (for example, because you drag some heavy wet laundry over it) the door will not engage the lock and stay closed. This is a feature to prevent the washer from leaking when the gasket is not sealed. To fix it, simply reseat the gasket and the door will close and lock.
tyr removing the lower acees panel from the uint , ther is a "button trap" located there to catch debris from entering pump assy, chances are its clogged and if it cant drain all the water it wont go into high speed spin, also you MUST use an HE detergent. HE detergent specifically designed for front loading washers
If it's gunk or build up the marks should wash away. In this case run a long cycle using "affresh" or "washer fresh" with an empty load and use the hottest water available to help rinse the gunk out.
If the marks do not wash away, it could be grease due to a bearing failure. Listen for loud growling or grinding either by spinning the drum by hand or putting it into a spin cycle. If this is the case, the rear tub assembly (contains bearing) will need to be replaced. Not much can be done about the ruined clothes :(
Possible that the program controller unit is not outputting or switching the motor at the time of the cycle. Try and check the voltage to the motor at the SPIN cycle, If absent check on the wiring , check for loose or dry joints. If not the program controller is a suspect.
it could be you have to heavy a load or you do not have the washer level. Most washers have screw out feet that can be adjusted to keep them from shaking so violently the best thing to do is set a lever in different positions and directions on the top and level it completely and see if that does not fix your problem.
If the washer fills, agitates but will not spin and drain, then you need to replace the lid switch. Here is a link to the part you need.Here is a video to show you how to replace the switch.
this means that the door is not shut check to make sure the door button is still there its behind the door on the frame you should see a little black button sticking out if its not there you need a new door switch if its there try pushing the door button a couple times really fast sometimes this button gets stuck if that doesnt work its probably your door lock
bob, if your model starts with 417. this is a mother of all jobs. The black marks are coming from the rear bearing assy. in the tub. I just changed one out and it is misery. I don't believe the boot is causing the black marks. When I tore this one apart I found the tub, tub to drain pump hose, pump itself, contaminated with this black crap. Replaced them all. The tub and bearing comes as one piece and it is no fun to put in. The whole washer has to come apart to do this job and it requires two men to do it. The boot (bellow)itself is a pain to install. You might want to check with Sears and see if this is covered under the 5 year warrany on the bearing and tub, parts only, if not, it's not worth the time or money..Catriver..post back.
If your washer doesn't spin, check to see if the clothes have jammed or are unbalanced in the drum before calling a repairperson. Unbalanced clothes will also cause a washer to shudder or "walk." If straightening out the load doesn't stop the washer from shaking, look at the feet underneath and be sure they are properly adjusted to keep the washer sitting level on the floor (you just turn them to move them up or down).
or try to follow this instruction
1. Open the lid and reposition the clothes. Close the lid and retry. The washer may not spin at all if the tub is unbalanced.
2. Examine the lid switch for wear. Replace a worn lid switch by first using a screwdriver to remove the top of the machine. Remove the cabinet holding the old switch in place by unscrewing the two console screws, tilting the console back, removing cabinet clips, and unlocking the lid switch block. Unscrew the mounting screws, and disconnect the ground wires before removing the old switch. Insert the new switch in it's place.
3. Look for excessive glazing or cracks on the sides of the belt. If these signs appear, remove the old belt by tipping the washing machine over on it's side, and unscrew the clamps securing the pump coupling with a screwdriver. Place the new belt over the transmission pulley, and then over the motor pulley's nearest edge, slowly turning the motor pulley to pull the belt around and into the pulley.
4. Replace the washer's motor by firmly grasping on the metal slip-on connectors holding the wires in place, allowing you to pull the connectors apart. Use a screwdriver to unscrew all of the screws holding the motor in place, and remove the old motor. Insert the new motor in its place. Secure the new motor to the machine with screws, and reconnect the motor's wiring harness.
5. Replace the washer's pump by removing the service panel on the back of the machine with a screwdriver and disconnecting the washing machine drain line and the rubber pump outlet hose. Remove the fasteners holding the pump to the bottom of the machine, along with the drive belt from the pulley below the pump. Replace the old pump with a new one, and reinstall the drive belt back on the pulley, reinsert the fasteners and reconnect the rubber pump inlet and discharge lines.
You may have a broken inner tub spider. Check for play between the inner drum and the outer tub by moving the inner drum up and down. If there is excessive play, the spider is broken causing an unbalanced load and therefore no high speed spin can be achieved.
In this case the inner drum would need to be replaced, which means taking the machine almost completely apart. A good tech can do it in about 1.5 hours.
First
make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump assembly located inside the
bottom of the unit, after this test the lid switch assembly, you jump it to
test it. If the lid switch is also fine then the control board should be
replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
