20 Most Recent Culligan Sediment Water Filter - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Salt bridging can occur in any water softener "salt tank". A salt bridge occurs when a hard crust of salt develops across the salt tank when the salt wicks up moisture. The salt does not fall down in the salt tank in between regenerations and a "bridge" occurs. It may look like the salt tank is full but there will be a hollow area at the bottom of the salt tank and not enough salt to develop the proper brine for regeneration of softener. This generally happens when the salt tank is a least 1/2 full of salt. If the system has a separate salt tank, shaking the tank will break the bridge usually. Gently poking a stick at the bridge can break it up also but can damage the salt grid if you poke the stick too far down in the salt tank. Certain salts, such as pellet salt are highly prone to this problem. Using Dura Cube, Hardi Cube or Solar salt will greatly reduce the chance of bridging. Any time a salt bridge occurs it will take 3 regenerations of the water softener (in 24 hrs), after fixing it, to regain the reserve capacity and totally soft water.RJ

You have either a bad board or bad transformer. You would need to call service.RJ

Here is a the link for the MK 89 Use and Care Guidehttp://www.isingsculligan.com/manuals/Mark89-812%287-97%2900881597.pdfIf you are looking for a parts manual that may be almost impossible as they are very protected.RJ

It depends on which hose you are referring to. If you are referring to the DRAIN it may have come off by the softener valve it goes back on the drain connection on the side of the valve (use a hose clamp). If it came off by where the softener drains it goes back into wherever the softener was draining (laundry tub, standpipe trap, floor drain)? If the hose came off by the connection for the salt tank it should be replaced. If you don't know, unplug the softener for now or it may flood again and call your local dealer.RJRJ

1. Turn the incoming water off. 2. Open closest cold water faucet, let it run until no water. 3. Turn off outlet valve after filter. 4. Hold down red pressure relief button, until no water. 5. Unscrew filter bowl with filter bowl wrench (if you have one). If this does not work repeat steps 1-5 and turn the water off at well tank or water meter. Never tighten pre-filter with wrench, changethe o-ring every year and lubricate the o-ring every time filter is changed.RJ

The eductor assembly is plugged or the refill restrictor in top of float assembly is plugged. The eductor/injector draws the brine in during regeneration. These need to be cleaned to remove any oxidized iron or sediment . Do you have your owners manual for your Water Gard system?RJ

The filter housing will have either a shut off valve before and after the housing or a valve on top of the housing that turns (Black).Shutoffs before and after.1. Turn both valves off2. Push the "red button" on top of filter housing and hold to relieve the pressure off housing.3. Unscrew housing to the left (lefty loosey, Righty tighty) You should have a housing wrench. 4. Remove filter, clean housing, lubricate the o-ring with silicone lubricant.5. Replace filter, Screw housing back on (Hand tighten only)6. Open inlet valve (slightly) while holding down the "red button" to relieve air in housing.7. Open inlet and outlet valves and you are back in business.PS if the housing is very difficult to remove.1. Shut off inlet valve2. Open the nearest cold water faucet and let it run until no water3. Shut off outlet and repeat procedure as aboveGood Luck, RJ5.

There may be water leaking from one of the ports in the valve where solenoid valves are. These valves are also notorious for developing cracks overtime. Run the unit through a manual regeneration and observe the connection where drain line connects and pull the cover off the front too observe if any leaks are coming from around the solenoid valves.H2oservices

Always turn to the left to loosen, right to tighten (righty tighty, lefty loosey). Look at the tips section for loosening stubborn filter housings.
RJ

The Culliagan manual does not specify clockwise/counterclockwise, but what that means is its
implied to be counterclockwise. If you're using the "Big Blue HD-950" filter housing, then
you'll also want the Culligan SW-3 Filter Housing Wrench. But a HUGE pair of Channellock pliers
would also work (while leaving behind a few teeth marks in the plastic housing).
reference:
https://www.filtersfast.com/P-Culligan-HD950-Water-Filter-Housing.asp

The only place you can find parts for this unit would be from a Culligan dealer.
RJ

It normally is under pressure. There is a "check ball" in the tube to prevent water from coming out of the tube in service. The feed tube has to be flooded with water in service position so when system goes in to draw cycle vacuum is created in the tube to draw bleach. You may have a plugged eductor assembly or feed tube may be restricted.
RJ

I have the mark 49 catalog...maybe I could help you? [email protected]
This whole thing is new to me....I am trying to figure out how to even use the thing?