Top 20 Haier HTQ21JABRS Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

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As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Smell of fish = bacterial growth inside. The baking soda only absorbs remaining smell , it doesn't remove their cause. Since one of the panels has cracked maybe there is slime growing behind it.
You must desinfect you fridge thoroughly - use a lot of bleach , let it dry, wash it strongly to remove every trace of it, then use a lot of ammonia, again wash it thoroughly then plug the crack with hot glue. From now on be very meticulous with the cleaning of the fridge.

the vent motor is bad looks like a leuver needs to be replaced it is stuck closed not letting cold air into the refrigerator side keeping all the air in the freezer side forget what it is called thou sorry to say you prob wasted your money on 2 boards

Call 800-313-8495 for Haier Parts Dept.
The upper and lower are 2 different part numbers.

Hi,

If you have no cooling and the compressor is running you either have a leak that has caused the refrigerant (freon) to leave the system or a restriction in the system causing the refrigerant to not flow.

Either situation will require a repair by a refrigeration expert usually costing an average of $500.00

Sorry for the bad news..

work from the bottom clean first see if blades are rubbing fan shroud

what you have to do is have your leak fixed and they make schrader valves that have to be installed so they can be recharged what i would do is stop and ask an ac man if he wants to make a few xtra bucks after work and how much is it going to cost ask one or more ac dudes youl find one

95% of the time its your starting components. Research "URCO410" that is a universal relay overload and capactitor kit. VERY easy to install just read the instructions and take your time, and will cost you about 20 bucks from a local parts distributor. These are great because they just remanufactured them for the newer ref. especially if its a newer whirlpool. In the mean time unplug the ref because you could damage your compressor. If its a GE then the clicking noise is probably from your control board.

If you post model numbers and make I could give you model specific info with look-up. Im hoping to soon be an expert.

Let me know if this helps testimonials give me actual feedback instead of the thumbs up deal. If you need further help just post more info I am qualified to work on many refs.

HI. What generally happens during a power outage, will be a serious surge. The surge will, essentially, destroy the Main PCB. Without proper PCB function, the unit will not operate. All power is controlled by the main PCB. It routes power to the compressor and fans, as well. You can, visibly, inspect the affected part by pulling the access panel on the rear side of the unit. It will be mounted on a bracket, near the compressor assembly, or just in the middle section of the rear side of your unit. Inspect the Circuits and relays that are mounted on the PCB. If burn marks are present, or a brownish discoloration is sited on the circuit board, simply replace the PCB.

NOTE_ PCB location may vary in your model Generally, they are located just behind a access panel, on the rear side of the unit. Some may be mounted in close proximity of the compressor platform.

reason is that your compressor might overheat or it's overload relay didn't work.

If you're sure that the AC outlet in hot then it may be in defrost mode, in which case leave it plugged in for 45 minutes and it should cycle on, or the contacts inside the thermostat that turn the power on when they close, are burnt and need cleaned or replaced. Go to www.haieramerica.com/en/asset to find your manual.

unplug unit and see if that resets it

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. WARNING: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.

Hi,
The reason for your fridge to leak water on floor sounds like your defrost drain is frozen over. When the refrigerator is going into defrost it's draining through the front instead of the drain pan. You can remove the shelves and peel off the back cover and clear the drain by pouring hot water on the frozen drain hole. If you have a boaster of some sort you could try to squirt the hot water through the venting on the bottom of the panel. Another way to point a hair dryer on the drain hole. The best method is to remove the shelves and panel and make sure the drain is clear.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

There is ice buildup in an area that you cannot see.

The interior wall may "bulge" a little if the ice builds up a lot.

1. You may have the cooling dial set too high (use lower numbers)
2. The blower vent into the fridge or freezer maybe blocked (move items away from vents inside)
3. Defrost the fridge. The water pan underneath the refrigerator may overflow.

If there is no "defrost" setting, unplug for an hour (don't open refrigerator or freezer during defrost)

Plug back in, food will not spoil.

compressor hums -working clanging not good

Eventualy, the bushing inside the fan motor because of continious usage will need to be replace , this parts are replaceable. it's been five years now, and i suggest it's time to general maintenance check up your fridge to avoid more problems.

This sounds like a compressor that is whining. Or something maybe wrong with the fan motor. You can stop the fan to see if its still there. If it is then its the compressor making the noise.

are you sure that they are not filled with dry ice?