KitchenAid KSM103 Professional 5 Series Stand Mixer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

At the end of the Service Manual is a page covering the serial numbers and manufacturing dates. http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

Sounds like you have solved it already, the phase boards are worth stuff all so buy one and throw it in. It's unlikely to be much else as you have proved the motor runs.

Look at the plug and see if the spades are the same size, One should be bigger than the other one. The problem could be the outlet that you are using too. If one spade is big then that would mostly rule out a short to the case of the mixer BUT if it was taken apart or serviced and wired wrong then the HOT connection is causing a short to the case. IF the outlet is wired wrong then the power is getting to the case when it should not be. Also the kitchen should be wired so that all the outlets are GFI and should not be shocking you.

If it is a ksm103 there should be a spring on the shaft, it should look similar to this: http://www.mendingshed.com/kacentershaft.html When adjusting the screw you should be turning it out, which will make the beater closer to the bottom of the bowl, when properly adjusted you should be able to place a dime in the bowl, and the flat beater should just move it around barely. that would be about 1/16" in clearance.

It is not going to be a problem with the motor. It is going to be a chipped/damaged gear, a bent planetary center shaft pin, or possibly the planetary itself.The first thing you need to do is take the mixer apart. You are going to have to clean of all of the gears and inspect them very closely. I recommend using paper towels and wd-40. If there is any damage, the gear will need to be replaced, in some cases the pin that sits between the worm follower gear and bevel gear can become bent, if it is, it also needs to be replaced. If all of the gears, bearings, and the pin are in perfect shape inspect your planetary assembly. In some cases the center shaft, which is pressed into the planetary can become loose, so it will still spin under no load, but as soon as you put something in the bowl it stops spinning.Here is a link to the KitchenAid service manual. This will walk you through how to take the mixer apart, and put it back together: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mendingshed/kitchenaid6qtservicemanual.pdfPlease let me know if you have any questions, or need help with the repair.Thank you,ColleenCustomer ServiceMendingShed.com800-339-9297

Leave a comment if you need more help.Thanks for using Fixya.

Obtain a copy of the Repair Part List for your model from Kitchenaid.com.
Download a Copy of the Kitchenaid Service manual.

http://www.kitchenaidparts.be/centers/servicemanual/mixer.pdf
Remove both Brush Holder Caps (34), one on each side of the
Gearcase Motor Housing (1). The Carbon Brushes (29) are keyed
and designed to go into the Housing but only one way. Both must
make contact with the Motor Coils in order for the Motor to turn.
If they are improperly inserted or too worn out (replacement is
required) then your mixer will not run.

Please elaborate.

Kitchenaid says to run the machine on 'high' long enough to heat the gearbox well and then turn the machine upside down and let it cool.

What happens is when you don't use your mixer a lot the grease in the gearbox will separate into oil and thicker grease. Warming it and turning it upside down is supposed to mix all the grease together again and allow it to flow to the top of the gearbox.

Give it a try, check back if you get no satisfaction and we'll get you started on changing your grease.

lp

These mixers are filled with grease at the manufacturer, and the heat may have broken down the grease a bit and looking like oil. Without seeing the problem, or knowing the exact location of the leak, I would say that a gasket or "O" ring has failed. Contact Kitchenaid for a gasket/seal rebuild kit. If it is new(er), It may be covered under warranty.

This must be the excess that was within the unit and has oozed out , you can wipe it off as it must have come out of the sealed oil seals due to excess heat or pressure.

There is no need to oil further but may be over a period of time you can do so to keep the bearings and bushes oiled.

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

kitchen

Hi GOTWEIMS. Yes there is only one way to reinstall your brushes and that is so they both seat correctly on the armature's commutator or you won’t get any ‘juice’ to the motor. See the illustration below:


If you've turned a brush 90 degrees too much, it won’t seat properly and you’ll get no power to the motor.
It would also be helpful to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> then enter the visitor type “Consumer” and the 6 character model number, in your case use KSM90P, in the Model Number box. Select one the files listed for your model that appears under Parts List (16): KSM90PSWH0.pdf (354.08 KB) and save that file to your PC (check to see it this matches your mixer model).
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled “Motor And Control Parts”, which provides an exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer’s electrical components, along with all the parts. Locate Illus No 32, Brush holder that includes #18, 20, 21, 22, 23, and 31 which is the brush holder and brush & Spring assembly respectively. This illustration along with my initial reply regarding the orientation of the brushes should allow you to reinstall your brushes with confidence. Good luck, I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution was helpful, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln

referring to:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%204176924.pdf

You can see that there are 5 screws holding the upper and lower gearcase together. They pinch the gasket number 26 together and prevent the oil and grease from leaking. Remove the chrome ring by prying gently around the ring. You will see the 5 screw heads. Tighten them and the leaking will stop.

If it still leaks then you may have to replace the fiber washers number 29 which will involve disassembling the lower gear case.

Here is how your speed control works:

Speed Control
The speed control of the mixer is attained through the use of a governor assembly mounted at the rear of the control plate assembly.
The electrical circuit is made and broken by the action of the fly ball governor revolving against the control plate.
When the switch lever is moved to an ON position, the position of the control plate with respect to the governor is changed by the action of the switch lever.
Thus, when the control plate is set close to the governor, a relatively low speed of the motor causes the governor to make or break the mixer’s electrical circuit through the control plate.
When the control plate is set farther away, a greater motor speed is required before the governor starts breaking the circuit.
The action of the governor is such that the speed of the motor will remain constant for a given setting of the control plate within certain loads.
After certain loads have been exceeded, the speed of the motor will drop to meet the torque requirements of the given load.
Speed is controlled by the governor and the control plate in conjunction with the phase control.

TRIAC RMS VOLTAGE
BOTH CONTACTS OPEN - 40 VOLTS
ONE CONTACT OPEN - 80 VOLTS
BOTH CONTACTS CLOSED - FULL VOLTAGE
NOTE: The triac regulates the power the motor sees depending on control board contacts.
A device called a triac is a part of the phase control circuit.
This device determines the amount of power the motor sees dependent upon the condition of the control board contacts.
If both contacts are open, about 40 volts RMS is applied to the motor and about 80 volts is applied when either contact is closed and the other is open.
When both contacts are closed, the triac is full on; consequently, full power is applied to the motor. In this way, the speed is controlled.
If the mixer motor begins to run too fast for a
particular speed setting, one or both contacts open, which cuts back on the voltage the motor sees, thus slowing it up.
If the motor operation becomes too slow, one or both contacts will close, applying the needed voltage to the motor to sufficiently increase motor speed.
This is always accomplished through the triac.
The control plate contacts control the triac, and in turn, controls the amount of power supplied to the motor.

The control Plate for your mixer is PN
W10119326
http://www.marbeck.com/mixers_kitchenaid_parts.html

If your not good with tools / meters or tedious repairs do NOT attempt this yourself.
The service manual for your mixer can be found here
http://www.f-ems.com/download/DownLoad.aspx?DocsID=082009012917

and is:
LIT4177310-C

Yes, your Kitchenaid mixer and be repaired.

You may use the following link to find a Kitchenid certified service center locally to you:

http://caservice.kitchenaid.com/

Hi there

Buy a small tub (one pound, I think is the common size) of all-purpose
grease or wheel-bearing grease at a hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, NAPA,
Car Quest, etc., store. This should cost you about $3.

Get two blade screwdrivers, one medium sized and one a little smaller.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM THE WALL SOCKET. Put the plug in a small
baggie and put a rubber band around it so the baggie doesn't fall off.

Take a small screwdriver and remove the screws holding the name strip
around the machine and the rear cover. Carefully remove the name
strip and set it aside. Remove the rear cover and set it aside.
These are small Phillips screws, but if you don't have a small
Phillips screwdriver (#1), you can get at them with a small blade
screwdriver; since they aren't critical, it doesn't matter if they
aren't gut-busting tight when you reinstall them.

Take the larger blade screwdriver and use it to remove the chromed
ring around the nose of the gear area. Catch the blade on the top of
the ring and rap the screwdriver smartly. The ring will drop off.
Unless it's held by all sorts of food build-up. Then it will give way
grudgingly and reveal stuff you'd forgotten you made.

Flip the machine on its back or side. Look at the shaft that the dough hook and paddle attach to. Notice that there is a pin through the housing and the shaft. This pin attaches the housing to the shaft and prevents them from turning relative to each other. Take a very small steel or brass pin, something like a shish-kabob skewer or the awl on a Swiss Army Knife, hold it against one end of the pin, and rap the skewer or knife with something substantial.. Be very careful not to round over or mushroom the head of the pin. The pin should come free and begin to work its way out. Remove the pin completely.
Wiggle the lower housing a bit and see if it will pull free of the
main housing. Usually they don't. Look at the area where the small
screws are. Take a small screwdriver and pry the housing down from the screws. With a bit of cajoling and a few choice words, the piece will come off. You will be left looking at a set of eccentric gears in one hand and the gear ring still attached to the machine. There will be all sorts of nasty looking and nastier smelling stuff in the housing and on the gears.

Notice that there are two sets of screws exposed.
1. Four larger slot head screws toward the read of the machine and
2. Six smaller slot head screws around the gear area.
Remove all these screws and set them aside.
Being very gentle, break the machine apart so that the lower and upper parts of the body come apart. Be very careful of the gasket that seals the gear head surfaces. Be very careful not to put any strain on the wires that connect the upper and lower portions of the machine body. You now have a look at the inside of the gear works.

On the main body of the machine you will see a large beveled gear set.
This is the main gear. Sticking up from the same area is a smaller
round gear set. This small round gear is the fail-safe that will
strip from time to time. To replace this gear, you need to remove the pin that holds it, remove the old gear, put in the new gear and
replace the pin. I usually replace the pin at the same time, since
the pin can become bent or mushroomed over.

Think of grease as being composed of two components: oil and soap.
The oil is the lubricant and the soap is the carrier. The hard stuff
is the old soap that has been left behind when the oil took a walk.
Clean out all the old grease. As you clean it out, look for pieces of
metal that may have flaked off of gears. If you find any, try to
figure out where they came from. Don't even think of using the
new, "green" brake cleaners; they have water in them and don't work at all. When you get the old grease off and everything is clean and neat, take a close look at the small gear.

It may be worn. If it is, make a note to order two and two pins to go
with them. Also make a note to order two of the gaskets that you were careful not to destroy. If you are feeling flush, order a spare pin for the attachment shaft. You never know.

When you have finished, slather a goodly amount
of grease on and into all gear teeth, on all exposed shafts and
anywhere else you think moving parts might wind up.

Working carefully, reverse the above disassembly procedure and put the machine back together. Wipe everything carefully.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya!!!!

I had removed carbon brushes and when tried to start nothing happened kept removing brushes it eventually started

It uses a food approved oil.