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For the Kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01, to clear the power outage indicator (blinking "PO"), press the Measured Fill button on the key pad. That is the right-most button below the screen.

The manual for this refrigerator is available at Sears Parts Direct on the product page: . The current link to the manual is . See page 21 of the manual for information on the power outage indicator. Look in the right hand column. The manual is also available from Kitchenaid on the product page: . Scroll down (or use the link) to the Manuals & Guides section. Expand the section by clicking on the +. The direct link to the manual is .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

KitchenAid... | Answered 18 hours ago

The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.

With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.

Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.

KitchenAid 24... | Answered 20 hours ago

What part number did you order for the beater and what is the model number for the mixer? Also is the mixer brand new, or did you get it used and it just started happening?

KitchenAid... | Answered 3 days ago

If the beater passes the dime test there is no need to change the adjustment screw. The screw head rotates an eccentric stop which changes how far up the bowl lift goes. The screw limited to a full range adjustment of !/2 turn.

To access the screw internally, the motor head must be removed from the column. Download the service manual from:

KitchenAid Food... | Answered on Feb 18, 2019

If you are referencing the pin which locks the beater itself to the planetary's shaft, it can be removed with a punch.
However, if you are trying to remove the planetary itself, a 5/32" punch will do the trick.

KitchenAid Food... | Answered on Feb 18, 2019

Try cleaning contacts on speed control board. If it works, suggest replace.

KitchenAid Food... | Answered on Feb 17, 2019

It depends on your water pressure. Mine runs a cycle in about 25 minutes, with 92 psi water pressure. Before changing all the pipes in my house, I had about 30 psi and it took about 45 minutes. The longer it takes to fill, the longer it takes to do a wash.

KitchenAid 24... | Answered on Feb 16, 2019

This dishwasher have learning control board check your screen filter bottom middle inside make sure it's clean you need to run unit try self diagnostic mode just consentrate on first error message need to found out what is it fix problem and reset control by running diagnostics mode u should found service paperwork on inside of kuckplate (bottom penal holds by two plastic clips or 1/4 " screws

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 16, 2019

Sorry we do not sell parts of any kind or do we have any locator service to find them for you

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 13, 2019

Check the drain tube, sound like it may be clogged...

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 13, 2019

Is the water clean water or dirty water? This may sound like an ignorant question, but it can make a difference. If the water is clean water, it sounds like you could have a bad fill valve. If the dishwasher is filling with water when it is not running, chances are the fill valve is leaking. The valve is closed when the float switch senses the tub filling to a certain level. The valve is also closed when not energized by the control board during drain, drying and off cycles. However, if the valve diaphragm is not seating properly when closed, it will continue to leak by. That's probably why you don't notice it while is running and it has a chance to fill during the night when not in use. Here's what to look for: With the dishwasher off, take a towel and dry the tub as much as possible. Now, locate the fill port where the water comes in (usually on the left hand side of the tub). Watch this fill port closely for several minutes to see if water is running in. It could be as minute as a trickle or drip. If any water is coming in at all, the fill valve should be replaced. Now, another problem that can occur is when you notice dirty water staying in the tub or overflowing. This is usually caused by a bad check valve in the drain pump that's allowing water to leak back from the sink into the tub. Or, you do not have a high loop in the drain line. Here's what to look for: Check to make sure the drain line has a high loop as it leaves the dishwasher and before it gets to the drain pipe at the sink. That is, make sure the drain hose is looped above the trap in the sink and not laying under the sink somewhere. You can also try filling the sink with water and open the dishwasher door. Drain the sink to see if anything is getting fed back into dishwasher. If you see water starting to fill in the tub, chances are you could have a bad check valve. Some dishwashers have a check valve in the drain pump, while other models have the check valve located in the drain hose itself. Some don't have one at all. That's why the positioning of the drain hose can be important. Good luck to you and I hope this may help. If you determine a cause, post back with comments if you need advice on how to replace anything.

KitchenAid 24... | Answered on Feb 11, 2019

To fix this issue you really need to hire a professional for safety purposes. You are looking around $500 + or - $50 for this repair.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019

What you need to check is going to depend on the model. No point me attempting to help without knowing what one it is. If it has a back cover held on by a single cross head (philips) screw then very likely the solution will be under there. When plugged in there is live power there so be aware ***** is not far away if you plan on messing about while it's live.

KitchenAid Food... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019

Odds are that element is bad and needs replaced some minor testing needs to be done to know for sure. I have attached a picture of the elements as they are different depending on position. #12 is the part. Sears parts direct can get you the part numbers.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019

Have you tried running the exhaust fan when using the stove? Also you might try using the back burners. It sounds like the microwave is sitting too low and this may cause more issues as the time goes on.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019

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