20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia - Page 5 Questions & Answers

hi normaly this indicates a fuel problem, as the machine wont run properly without the choke you poss have a blocked jet in the carb or something, when you put the choke on the fuel is then pulled up, as the choke flap has closed of the air flow the natural thing is the vachume will pull up exsess fuel, this is fine until your engine becomes hot then the engine will start to run rough as a result of the overfueling, with respect of the spark plug if the engine runs the chances are the plug is fine, however overfueling will eventualy contaminate the plugs causing poor starting, with extreme care feel the exhaust pire from each cylinder where it comes out of the cylinder head, if it is hot then the spark plug is working just to reiterate you must ware a heat proof glove or wait till the engine has cooled down a bit before placing your hand near to the exhaust to avoid severe burns.

Parks breakdown:

http://www.scoot.bg/arhiv_na_opisanie_motori/800cc%20%28VL800%20VS55A%202001-2005%29.pdf

You will have to remove the ignition with some security bits.

under gas tank and res tank behind chrome cover on left side

if the exhaust was for a performance gain,then rejet.sorry dont no part no. for the intake boot

I have a complete How To posted here:

http://www.volusiariders.com/58-motors-transmissions-drives/194631-how-change-coolant-step-step-photos.html

First you need to determine if the coolant needs to be changed or just needs some added. You can test the potency of the coolant with a hygrometer that you can purchase at any auto parts store or big box store with an automotive section (i.e. WalMart, et al). They are relatively inexpensive.

Just aft of the side stand there is a cover with a sight glass to view the coolant level in the reservior. If you need to access the coolant reservior, remove the three bolts and remove the cover. From there everything else is pretty easy.

If you need to change the coolant entirely make sure you use an aluminum radiator compatible coolant and distilled water to make your mixture. This radiator does not have a filler cap. After you drain the radiator, replace the hose and clamp on the bottom of the radiator and add 1.6 quarts of your anti-freeze mixture to the reservior and run the engine for a couple of minutes then turn it back off and allow the reservior to refill the radiator.

It sounds a lot like the battery is dead. You can either try jump starting it (12 volt) or replacing the battery. The battery itself is locaated under the saddle. Remove the rear seat by removing the allen head screw that attaches the rear seat to the rear fender. When you remove the rear seat, you will see an odd looking hex head bolt with a cylindrical cap that holds the main saddle in place; remove that also. The main saddle will lift up and back to reveal the battery.

If it starts and the battery charges (run the motorcycle for 20-30 minutes), you are good to go. If the battery does not charge after running it for that amoount of time, you will need to replace the battery.

Did you check the system fuses? The fuse box is located behind the left side crankcase cover aft of the coolant reservior.

The 15 amp Signal fuse protects the coolant temperature light, the turn signal indicator light, the neutral indicator light, the oil pressure light, horn, brake/taillight, postition light and turn signal light. Basically, if this fuse is blown, your cluster will be inop.

Please let me know if this is helpful.

Where exactly is it coming from. Easiest way is to clean up the bottom and try and follow it up. The carbs have hoses that gas will leak from if there is a problem with them. A stuck float valve will cause your overflow tube to drip gas when the petcock is on. Also, if your gas tank is overfilled or on a hot day, sometimes gas can come out of that overflow tube as well. Figure out exactly where it's coming from first. Or take a picture, that will help. If it is the carb overflow tube give the carbs a good whack with a plastic handled screwdriver (a big one) and that may release the stuck valve and allow it to do its job, which is closing off fuel. Other than that, the only other cylindrical thing I can think of would be the brake master cylinder, which would also drip a clear-ish liquid, that resembles gas, but doesn't evaporate at all. It is essentially hydraulic fluid. I hope this helps.

Bruno

if youf talking about the petcock then i would take it off.might be a bad o ring

Your motorcycle is a 12 volt system.

I would start by pulling the spark plug and check for spark. If you have spark, then I would check for fuel. You might spray a small amount of starting fluid in the air filter. If it starts then you will know that it is a fuel problem. How long has the fuel been sitting in the carbs? Gas turns to varnish after a year. And will really gum up your carbs.

If the light came on , but the fan did not, and the bike did not overheat, replace the temp sender. It is probably not working correctly and you always start with the cheapest solution first.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

Follow the spark plug wires, you will find them. they are in the heads of the bike, somewhere, probably buried in a well, with the plug wire coming out. Check it out.

yes steve- this is the water pump by-pass hole. There is a secondary backup al behind it to stop the water entring the gearbox. Replace the waterpump seal. Most suzukis' use a mechanical seal. they are prity easy to change- although usually requires removal of the clutch cover. I always replace the mechanical seal, back up seal & the bearing all at once.If it is a standard seal type- be sure to ckeck the shaft of the impellor for groves worn in it where the seal contacts the shaft - in mechanical type seals this does not apply.
Hope this helps regards
Andrew

Lose the synthetic as fast as you can. Synthetics can swell the cork on the pressure plates. This causes the clutch to grab and/or drag. 10w40 motor oil should be in the gear box.

The battery on this bike is actually under the saddle. You will need to remove the rear seat, which is held in with a 6mm allen head screw. Once you remove the rear seat (if so equipped) you will see an odd looking bolt holding down the saddle. It has a cylindrical head over and the actual bolt head under that. Remove the saddle by lifiting up and back. You will see the battery right there.

The neutral safety switch has gone bad. It is inside the transmission case, which is beyond the skill level of most people. If you want to get a new switch, the Suzuki part number is: 37720-41F10. The part will probably run you about $80.00 USD.

Good luck and God Bless.