20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia Questions & Answers


Have you try to rev it up stationary (no load) and with load on its centre stand, any RPM drop or struggling?
Have you checked the jet seats, idle jet seats, perhaps fuel filter.rectifier/regulator state, float bowl seating impedement, vacuum line and oil level.
Does it burn any oil or have low compression in cylinders or valve are not closing properly?

2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on May 04, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Apr 01, 2019


Hi, Terry and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. Air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
10. Radiator veins clogged or corroded needs repair
11. Ignition timing retarded.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/228572-overheating-not.html
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Mar 19, 2019


Hi, Media_heck for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/221568-01-fuel-line-diameter-length-etc.html
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5504.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Mar 13, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Angelusmorti you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Carolinarph I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki VL800 Owner Manual

2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Lynette_sawy and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki VL800 Owner Manual

2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Troy, you can ask 10 different riders and you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online otherwise Mobil 1 is my second choice.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Bernie for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Boa_man31 excellent question, before I begin let me address motorcycles with valves and seats designed to run on leaded fuel issue, you can run unleaded fuel without a lead additive with no problem just replace the valves and seats with ones designed for unleaded fuel the next time you need a top end overhaul. In extremely rare cases some higher compression engines will ping using the highest octane graded unleaded fuel available in these cases the use of a lead additive or aviation fuel is recommended. Octane rating is a measure of a fuel's ability to resist 'knock'. The octane requirement of an engine varies with compression ratio, geometrical and mechanical considerations, and operating conditions. The higher the octane number the greater the fuel's resistance to knocking or pinging during combustion.
The recommended octane rating for most motorcycles is usually octane 87, but be sure to check your bike's owner's manual. Ordinarily, your motorcycle will not benefit from using an octane higher than recommended in the owner's manual. However, some motorcycle models have high-compression engines and electronic controls, which are designed to benefit from the greater power output and improved fuel economy of high-octane fuel. Since octane requirements can vary with operating and environmental conditions, your bike may need a higher octane fuel than recommended to prevent knocking.
Bottom line, use the lowest grade octane that gives you acceptable performance without knocking or pinging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
fuel grade Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
Which Octane
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Jackie881 engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Lincoln for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch not adjusted properly.
2. Primary chaincase overfilled with lubricant.
3. Corners wore off shifter clutch dogs.
4. Shifter return spring bent or broken.
5. Bent shifter rod.
6. A loose shift lever on shifter shaft.
7. Shifter forks sprung.
8. Shifter pawl needs adjusting.
9. Heel/toe shifter coming in contact with the floorboard.
10. Transmission oil too heavy.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Mark before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Nov 19, 2018

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