20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The workshop manual would show you a schemetric diagram of the cooling system.The parts fisch can also be usefull.The manual will also show you how to go about changing the hose under the section relating to radiator removal.Perhaps your local friendly Suzuki dealer may let you have a look unless there not so friendly.The manuals can be expensive but are generally the best tool you can buy looking after you trusty steed and will pay for themselves in the long run. Hope this was helpfull.

sounds like you poped a fuse have you pulled them to check them all out,,, you may have a main fuse blown

From the top of your radiator you will have a pipe 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch follow that along and you will find your expansion tank there will be no more then about 3 bolts holding it on remove the hose and bolts and take the tank out of your motorcycle and drain into a sealable container DO NOT try to **** the coolant out with a hose as the anti freeze is poisonous it kills around 10,000 pets per year an estimated 3,400 human poisonings...20% are children under the age of 6, Depose of your anti freeze wisely.

Try loging into a local dealer's internet site. A lot of times these days they offer the customer the ability to use the parts fische that they use to look up parts in-store. If you don't know of a local dealer just punch in Suzuki parts fische and that should direct you to a dealers site that offers this option. Most times if you register with them you can even order online. Just be sure you have the right part before ordering as most charge a restock fee if you have to return. Or store credit only

Hi,

If possible check all the wiring or check some parts for a small short-circuit that might have occured.

This though seems something a mecanic can figure out, and i hope ofcourse the meter isn't broke.

I hope this is helpful, succes and greetings,

Olivier.

kinda sounds like a lifter

They are not cable driven. They are electric. Check your fuses, more than likely you have blown a fuse. Do not check them just by looking at them. You need to use either a test light or a multimeter to test them. Fuses can look fine and still have an open circuit. If you trust your eyes, you can be wasting a lot of time.

the gap is 031 bud

before you replace the battery check all connections and load test battery most auto part store can do that

was it low on oil sounds like you throwen a rod it will have to be toren down and rebuilt

probably only need 1/2 to 3/4 litre,when you are filling the final drive through the large bolt hole,that is also the level guide,when the oil starts to dribble out the hole,the drive is full.

sounds like it flooded hold it wide open and start it

How many miles on the bike? How many owners? How complete is the service history? Does the noise happen when the bike is stationary or moving or both? Are all the fluids at the correct levels (water, oil)?

Alot of the time is vibrates and unscrews from the back of the speedometer. If it is screwed in on both sides, unscrew them both and turn the cable with your fingers to make sure it isn't broke.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Almost always, your desribed problem indicates a blown main fuse. The main fuse holder is usually integrated with the starter motor relay. To locate this relay, follow the big cable from the battery's + terminal.

Others to check would be the battery cables and the harness / connector leading to the ignition switch.

Would appreciate updates.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole. My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe. If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion. Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

start at your key and work your way back. did you add anything? how long has it sat? check your battery cables. too much gunk on them and it wont make any contact

Chances are the forks are just a bit out of alignment from the fall. Put the bike on the center stand with the front wheel pointing perfectly straight ahead. Are the handlebars looking like they are turning a bit to the left or right? If so, just go to the front of the bike and straddle the front wheel while facing the rear of the bike. Hold the wheel firmly with your legs and firmly twist the bars back to a straight position. Re-check the alignment and re-adjust as needed. Now go ride and check it out.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

There is a switch down on the kick stand, if the kick stand is in the right position it is not going to let the bike start, letting out on the clutch a little may override that switch, ck this first see if it is loose or out
of its socket, then ck the wires to the switch.

a small flat head screw driver will pry the crush gaskets off. take care to not scratch you jugs or headers. bend up a corner if you can and pull them off with pliers or vise grips. I am assuming you did remove the bolts holding the pipes on the headers.