20 Most Recent 1993 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Questions & Answers


Hi, Coronaansalt for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 04, 2018


Hi, Jasonraggett "NO" 1993 the carburetors are gravity fed 1997 and later had fuel pumps, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 02, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
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1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 31, 2018


Hi, Trevor if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3123.pdf
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1993 Suzuki... | Answered on May 27, 2018


excessive gas in mixture- look at float levels and dirt in air passages in carbs

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Jul 16, 2014


Spray wd40 around the head gasket if the idle gets higer than you did it wrong

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 15, 2010


Just plg them in. It its not right you will know it. try again. You wont hurt anything if you fire up in wrong order,

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Aug 02, 2009


check your copression if its fine take your pipes off and see if the problem still exsites

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 24, 2009


The choke valves on the carbs maybe jamed.Take out the carbs and clean them thoroughly.

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 03, 2009


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, it would appear to be a carb issue. Initial suspect would be that the sliders (plungers) are not rising fast enough. This could be caused by:
  • varnish like coating / buildup impeding smooth movement;
  • poor vacuum;
  • leak on the diaphragm area;
  • clogged jet(s);
  • restricted air intake.

Incidentally, what is the color of the sparkplug ends?

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.


1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 01, 2009


Needle or seat damaged. Fuel in air box ? Would be wise to make sure crank case isn't filled with gas... you may not want to star it.

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on May 28, 2009


Could also be a bad rectifier not sending the proper voltage back to the battery for charging or you just got a bad battery. Since you just put in a new battery I'd suspect that and have it checked at the shop you bought it from.

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on May 22, 2009


Invest in a FACTORY service manual. By the end of the first hour the manual has paid for itself. Don't get a Haynes or Clymer manual. Set the valve clearances and cam chain tensioner. Install new stock NGK spark plugs. Clean or replace the air filter.

I don't have a manual so I will assume the bike has carbs and not fuel injection.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

FOR EACH carb >
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. After all carbs have been done, turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together and install the carb.

Also, sync the carbs such that the slides on all carbs begin to move at the same exact instant when the throttle is slowly turned. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks! Bebe!

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 29, 2009


Assuming ALL bulbs work including the warning lights on the dash, it sounds like a faulty flashing indicator relay to me. Try a replacement.

1993 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 24, 2009


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GSX-R 600... | Answered on Mar 01, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GSX-R 600... | Answered on Feb 25, 2019


What do you mean you cant get the front end off the ground? As in wheelie? Sounds to me like you might be abusing your 12 year old motorcyle - not allowing it warm properly - making excessive demands on the power plant and frame while also endangering yourself and others around you. Im not making a lot of sense of your question. You will pay ao lot of money for a replacemeent engine, to rebuild yours will also be a lot of money. After you are done with that investment (probably at least 1/2 the price of a new bike) you will still have a 12 year old bike. If I am understancing the ins and outs of your question, neither option seems like a good investment.

Suzuki GSX-R 600... | Answered on Jun 02, 2018

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