20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Questions & Answers

1. Make sure tank has fuel and is not stopped up. Make sure petcock is clean. If this is a vacuum feed - make sure the vacuum hose is not cracked or have any leaks. Disconnect the fuel like going to the carbs , then use a manual vacuum gage to pull vacuum on the petcock to see if it fuel from the carb lines. If it doesn't, you have isolated the issue! If it does flow fuel, reconnect the carb fuel lines, then remove the float bowls from the carbs then repeat the process, If no fuel is flowing out, you have found the problem, If it does flow, you fixed it

replace the fuel pump or adjust the TPS. It doesnt do it in nuetral its because it is not under a load. Put in dealer mode to check the TPS. It should read -COO... If the - is not in the middle (if its up top or on bottom) it needs to be adjusted.

It's for adjusting the idle speed of the engine ,screw it in the engine speed goes up and vice versa.it seizes up though sometimes.

Check back lash on thermo fan ie is there side to side movement in the fan if there is it means your thermo fan requires replacing as the electric motor bushing has worn out

the orange w/white trace wire to coils is the power wire. It gets voltage from the r/h handle switch. open the switch and verify that voltage is going into the engine kill portion of switch and is passing to the orange /white wire when key and stopswitch is on. BTY I am assuming that you have checked the fuses.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, check color of sparkplug tips to determine if lean or rich air/fuel mix. Offhand I am inclined to think lean (light brown to almost whitish)l if yes then possibly:

• an air leak on the rubber coupling from the air cleaner enclosure/box;
• the needles may have to be raised a bit by inserting thin small washers.

Postback results of above checks.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

look up in manual,or call and ask dealer ,or look on line under motorcycle repair sites.

The ignition voltage circuit on that model is the orange/white wire. The voltage to all ignition components you mentioned originates from the engine stop switch. All orange white wires should be hot with key and stop switch on. Trace as necessary to find where the break is.

A service manual for your bike will give the ohms specification for this component to be measured with an ohmmeter. However a more accurate way to test the output with a "peak reading" volt meter. The pulse generator should make 3-7 volts DC at cranking speed.

Instructions Verifying the Spark 1 Remove the upper and side fairings, using a 4 mm Allen wrench to unscrew the fairing bolts. Unlock and remove the rider's seat, using the ignition key. 2 Pull the fuel lines off of the fuel valve under the left side of the fuel tank. Unscrew the pair of bolts from the base of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket. Pull the fuel tank to the rear of the motorcycle to remove it.. 3 Pull the cables off of the two spark plugs on the right side of the motor. The spark plug cable furthest to the right is connected to the right ignition coil, while the second cable is connected to the left ignition coil. Unscrew the spark plugs from the motor, using a spark plug socket. Plug the ignition cables back onto the removed spark plugs. 4 Hold the spark plugs against the motor and start the motorcycle for a few seconds. Observe the gap between the electrode at the tip of both spark plugs for spark. Ideally, the spark should have a bright, blue appearance. 5 Replace the spark plugs with new DR8E spark plugs, if no spark is present. Repeat the test. Replace the corresponding ignition coil if there is still no spark present at the spark plugs' electrodes. 6 Proceed to Section 2 for further diagnosis, or reassemble the motorcycle following the reverse method of removal. Testing the Windings 7 Remove the suspect ignition coil from the motorcycle's frame, using a 10 mm socket. Unplug the coil's cables from the remaining spark plug in the motor and from the spark plug removed in Section 1. Unplug the motorcycle's wiring harness connector from the back of the ignition coil. Remove the remaining ignition coil, if needed, using the same procedure. 8 Set your multimeter to read an R X 1 resistance range, using the meter's settings dial. 9 Measure the ignition coil's primary winding at the terminal that connects to the motorcycle's wiring harness, using your multimeter. Touch the meter's red probe to the coil's positive (+) terminal and the black probe to the coil's negative (-) terminal. Take note of the measurement on the meter's display. Replace the ignition coil if its primary winding has a resistance measurement less than 3 ohms or greater than 5 ohms. 10 Set your multimeter to read an R X 1,000 resistance range, using the meter's settings dial. 11 Measure the ignition coil's spark plug cables, using your multimeter. Touch the meter's probes to the metal connectors within the cable's end caps. Take note of the resistance measurement on the meter's display, indicated in ohms. Replace the ignition coil if the cables have a resistance measurement less than 25,000 ohms or greater than 45,000 ohms. 12 Reinstall the ignition coil if its primary winding and spark plug cables are within the specified resistance range, using the reverse method of removal. Replace the entire ignition coil if either the primary winding or the spark plug cables are within specification, as the ignition coil and its cables are a combined assembly. 13 Reassemble the motorcycle following the reverse method of removal. Connect the left ignition coil's cables to the pair of spark plugs in the middle of the motor's cylinder (#2 and #3), while the right coil's cable connect to the spark plugs on the sides of the cylinder (#1 and #4).

Get the gaskets in the carbs checked. Mine were worn out and cracked and I kept losing power and the bike cut out. Luckily the dealer I bought it off took it back, replaced the gaskets and Robert is your father's brother

Go to the site below and you can get a free download of a factory service manual. The '97 manual will work just fine for your '98. Please, rate my answer. Thanks. www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp .

I hope it was sitting inside and not outside. Bear in mind this bike may get costly. The following are general thoughts

• Remove the bike battery and run jumper cables to the battery leads. Will the bike turn over using a car's battery?
• Do the clutch and throttle cables work okay?
• With car battery hooked up, does it have spark?
• Shoot WD40 into each cylinder to lube the rings
• Change gearbox oil. Lube the chain. Be sure the brakes are functioning properly.
• Chances are the carbs are gummed up and will need some serious cleaning. Add an in-line fuel filter.

How bad is the rust inside the gas tank? You may need to seal the tank with KREEM to kill the rust problem.
www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

• New chain. New front and rear sprockets (if needed)
• Battery
• Carb rebuild kits (if needed)
• Upholstery
• Tires
• Throttle, clutch and front brake cables
• Speedometer cable
• Electric starter (if needed)

Please rate my answer. Thanks.

where are the lines coming from, if they are off of the tank...that would be your drainage line, it is fine to hang unconnected to anything else, just a pressure and water release strategy.

No it does not, it has a warning light for fuel, and a Neutral light for you gears,after that it is up to you to know or try to remember what gear you are in. As for fuel....use the odometer, when you fill up with fuel, reset the trip meter, you should see about 135-150 miles before the warning light comes on. From there go get your fuel and see what mileage you have, so that everytime you get fuel you can reset it and by using the odometer on the road you will know exactly how much fuel you do have. It is way more accurate than a gauge and it will not stop working, I hope this helps you

you can just replace the whole assembly, it would be cheaper and take alot less of your time. Just remove the ring of bolts going around the lip of the lock assembly and pull it up and off. To replace just do the same thing backwards, put the new one on and align it with the proper holes, make sure each screw goes back to the proper holes because they have different lengths. If one does not go all the way down when tightening it then remove that on and put a short bolt in, etc.

there is no reserve switch for the fuel, there is only a warning light in the gauge cluster, with that coming on you should have atleast 30+ miles to go (do not try that though unless you like walking). As soon as the light comes on I would be looking for a fuel station.