it sounds like you have a leak in a hose from the radiator (if fitted) if so cheack all hoses and even the radiator for leaks if its a hose just take it off and take it to a hardware store and ask for a pipe exactly the same as it
YOU NEED THE SPECIAL FACTORY TOOL SE OR A WOBBLY AND EXTENSION ON A RATCHET REMOVE SEAT COME IN FROM BETWEEN THE FRAME SEAT ARE AND GO FOR IT AND FROM THE FRONT SIDE THE SAME BUT MOST IMPORTANT YOU NEED A FLEXIBLE SPARK PLUG REMOVER
The problem seem to involve a number of circuits, I would suspect the Key switch as it supplies power to all affected systems. The dieing on release of the clutch is usually the kickstand safety switch. If the kick stand is not up, and the bike in gear, then when the clutch switch detects release is kills the engine so you don't kill your self.
Check or replace these switches.
check to make sure the front forks are compressing at the same rate. Check fork seals. If one side compresses easier than the other it can cause a vibration in the bars as one side is dampened more than the other.
Yes, it sounds EXACTLY like a stuck float. You may be able to fix it yourself depending on how accessable the offending carburetor is. Quite often you can free up a stuck float by setting up a bit of vibration. Give this a try > tap the side of the carb repeatedly using the plasitc end of a screwdriver. You are not looking to hammer the thing to death, just create minor shocks. The shocks / vibration will often free up a stuck float. Please rate this solution and let me know if all went well.
Hi, Yes it is an electric fuel pump and the ticking is the pump working. So if you hear the ticking your pump should be OK. After turning off the petcock and running the carbs dry the next time you turn it back on you should leave the kill switch on and turn the key on and wait till the ticking stops, turn the key off and back on and wait for the ticking to stop again. You should do this a couple of times to make sure the system fills. Normally you should always use your kill switch to turn off your engine. Also under normal conditions you will not hear the ticking as it only ticks a couple of times to fill the system once it is full. Good Luck to you, This should Fixya!
Google " motorcycle salvage kawasaki " chances are you can find one there. If interior rust is a problem get a liquid tank liner. Rust is no longer a problem.
Google“ kreem fuel tank liner “or go towww.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html Top rating on the answer? Thanks :)
There is a master fuse. It is 30 amps and is located at the side of the starter motor relay. To determine the location of this relay, follow the wire from the + terminal of the battery. The main fuse is responsible for supplying all the electrical power of the bike except for the starter itself.
Pull the right side cover off which should expose the radiator overflow bottle, just like a car. Towards the front of the bottle are the marks for full and low. Open the top and put in motorcycle specific antifreeze if needed.
To my understanding and in some versions, there is a 30A main fuse located at the starter relay. To locate the starter relay, trace/follow the + battery cable. There would be a rubber cap. Upon removal, the big terminals would be exposed as well as the main fuse.
take it straight to a mechanic to be re aligned obviously when you put it back together u either missed a washer or was not ligned up properly into the slots u can attempt to do it yourself but in most cases youll end up back at square one
I have a 2000 Vulcan Nomad FI & had a very similar problem. In fact, it's a very common problem with these bikes. I fixed it by replacing the Clutch Spring. (As Described here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm
It cost me $40 and 3 hours of time with an impact wrench.
Use caution anytime a bike doen't operate as it should. The problem could be your unfamiliarity with the bike or a mechanical problem such as a broken spring on a shift drum index arm. Take the bike to a dealer or at least call a dealer and let them give some input.
Kill switches and the safety interlock switches are a very common issue:
Clutch in or out: Kickstand down, in gear - No start, will stall if running. Kickstand down, in neutral - Start and run. Kickstand up: Clutch in, in gear - Will start and run Clutch out, in gear - No start, but will run
So if the kickstand switch is going bad (it's normally closed when the stand is up), then the bike will intermittently fail to start or will stall when in gear. If the clutch switch is going bad, then the bike will behave normally when in neutral, but will not start when in gear.
Loose battery cables are another common cause of failure to start. A low battery can also cause problems on an EFI bike. The lights will come on, but when you hit the starter and put the battery under load, the voltage can drop to the point that the ECU shuts down. If this happens during riding season, it's a sign that the battery is probably due for replacement.... on your '05, if that's the stock battery, you're in the range of where batteries commonly fail (anywhere from 2.5 to 4 years).
Now...
It is NOT a good idea to start the bike while it is in storage. The charging system does not put out enough at idle to recharge the battery, the heat cycling will cause condensation to build water in the oil, and blowby from combustion gasses (which are worst when the engine is cold) will build up acids in the oil. Don't start the bike unless you can get it up to full operating temperature and maintain it there for at least 30-60 minutes to give the contaminants time to boil out of the oil. If you are concerned about the battery, stick it on a Battery Tender overnight once a week or so.
if the bleeding temporarily helps you may have a bad master or slave cylinder, check the system really good for leaks. also check that your hose isnt pinched or cracked.
there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length.
there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length.
you have either a bad connection going to one of the switches on the handlebar controls or a broken wire going to the controls. check these wires really carefully/
