Top 20 2004 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Please check your pilot jet and main jet of fuel for malfunction.
Regards

Hello,

You probably have air in the clutch system and will need to bleed it. The following will help you bleed the clutch system and should clear up your problem.

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you find this information useful, please vote on this post. Thank You.

Regards,

Oz

There is a sensor on the kick/side stand. Check it is not faulty as if the bike thinks it is down, as you release the clutch it will kill the ignition.

It sounds like you have a bad front tire, axle may be loose or wheel bearings are failing. I do not recommend riding it until you get it checked out closer. An uneven tire tread surface is the most common.

Well, perhaps something grounded and you do not have power. you should be able to select neutral by feel, so do that. Verify by rolling the machine. Do you have headlights? The unit died complaint can be related. Fusable links are what jumps into mind, but you need to trace electrical power.

Complicated or what!
Depending on where it is made for.
US and Canada
SwitchLoom- Feed loom
Brown -Brown-Ign
White-white-Battery
Red/Blue-Blue-Tail1
Red-Red-Tail2
Blk/White-White-Battery
N/C-White-Grn/white
Grn/White-Grn/Yell

Or other
Brown-Ignition
White-Battery
Red/Blue-Blue-Tail1
Red-Tail2

I hope this makes sense.

Go to this site guy is good at explaining things and has a whole array of photos.... http://www.gadgetjq.com/reartireoff.htm

Unfortunately, there is not much you can do. I have ridden identical bikes, same year,same tire, and they all read the speed differently. All you can hope to do is get a tire that runs slightly smaller in diameter than the one you have now. A tire that is perhaps 1/4" to 1/2 " shorter than you have now will probably correct the problem. For example you may have to go from a 110/90 x 19 to a 100/90 x 19. Just changing tire brands in the stock tire size might lower the tire height.

I had a similar problem on my 05. it turned out that one of the clamps which tighten the exhaust coming from the catalytic converter.muffler on the bottom of the bike had a bolt which was completely gone. I put another one in and torqued it down and the squeaking stopped,

Your ignition switch just waved goodbye and died.
The contacts inside it are copper and with the use and years, get worn out. I had the same problem with my bike.

the belt could be out of ailment,wheel not straight with frame,belt too tight, look at base of teeth on belt.if any lines nelt could be breaking up ..and they do snap

There can be especially if you have a California model, I would suggest hooking them both up and then run the lines to there proper place, not sure which model you have but one is likely the drain for the gas cap area, if you don't hook that up you'll have gas dripping on your engine when its hot, probably not a good idea !

www.kawasaki.com
click purchase manuals then chose your bike.
click on parts diagram and download it will open up and you can print it out free

Replaced old gas then i am assuming the bike was not used for some length of time? If you have old gas in the tank and the bike was not used the gas in the carbs would have gummed up the jets in the carb or carbs.
sounds like its time for the carbs to be cleaned.

You might have an electrical short in the wiring going up to the bulb.

Or maybe just a loose ground wire?

yes it will be fine.

Ignition is normally on left side just below the rear of the seat. However, if yours has been chromed out with new ignition switch ( it will look like the turn knob on a bubblegum machine with a solid bar running up and down) the bar flips open ( to the left) and the key is round like those used to open a Cola machine.

are you running 20w50 oil? if yes, probably full synthetic. try running a standard 10w40 oil or something not as heavy as what your using. heavy oil in combination with cooler weather makes for heavier oil, harder for your starter to turn the gears through it. warmer days, gears move easier.

http://www.gadgetjq.com/reartireoff.htm
Step by step on this page

if there is any play in the swing arm its time to service it and fit new bearings but any time is a good time to grees it up as for the drive shaft this needs looking at every year or so again its a grees up pull off the shaft and clean off all the old grees first the shaft must slid freely on the splines