Hi, Tim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
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I would check the connection between the battery and the starter motor although its quite feasable that your starter is worn and is loading up, which makes it slow to turn and require more power from the battery.
Maybe you can remove the starter motor for testing?
Hi Bridgetsommerfield, there are many different methods out there to winterize a bike but this is what I do to my Harley every winter if you know your bike is going to be idle for months or longer here are some tips you can use to make restarting whenever that day comes to a hassle-free breeze.
A. Remove battery and keep it close to a battery tender/charger that you can hook up to at least once a month for 24 hours.
B. Drain the fuel tank and inspect the inside for rust, dirt, ethanol sludge, etc, remove and clean the petcock filter if you are carbureted, remove the fuel pump and check the pickup filter and the plastic delivery line for pin holes as these are common with age.
C. Drain the fuel lines going from the fuel tank to the carburetor/induction module.
D. On carbureted models remove the main jet access plug and drain the float bowl or, if necessary, remove and drain the float bowl!!!! this is very important as old fuel can turn to sludge and gum up your jets.
E. Drain engine, transmission, and primary oil this will eliminate wet-sumping and other various leaking situations during the storage time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at email@example.com. Good luck and have a nice day. Winterize How To Winterize How to Winterize Prepare Motorcycle for Winter
undo the bleed nipple slightly on the slave cylinder , remove cover on clutch lever and make sure to keep it topped up as you bleed ! pull lever and hold as you nip up the nipple then release lever ! do this several times , be careful not to get fluid on paint work as it will melt it ! once done top up fluid and fit cover and try !
One of several reasons...
1. You are not getting the transmission into neutral correctly
2. The neutral detent spring/plunger is weak/broken
3. The shift drum locator is worn or broken
4. The shift shaft arm that moves the shift drum is worn or broken
5. You have extremely worn shift forks. Its time to have a professional look at it... this jumping into gear will eventually cause serious damage to your transmission.
Check the connections they may be loose. If the connections are loose just tighten them and it should work. If not replace the battery. Most of the time if a battery sulfates it will still show a full charge but will not have the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to start the bike. Take the battery and have it tested. CycleGear can test the battery I think. If not most autozones can check the battery. I am 99% sure it will need to be replaced. If the relay or solenoid were bad there would be no clicking at all.