Top 20 1997 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 3 Questions & Answers

yes but you'll need to dismantle the engine and get any grit and sediment out of there, it will be all in the workings, don't even attempt to turn the crank it will shred the bores and bearings to pieces, all the electrics should be rinsed and drip dried. wash the engine parts in parrafin and oil them as you put it back together. big job but only way to do it.

the leak is from your shift shaft seal where the shaft comes out of the engine!... the fact that it is jumping out of gear is serious, most likely cause is burnt shift forks & rounded engagement dogs on the gears...major repair required to resolve this issue..

Check the battery ..does it have full charge at 12volts plus?

you are going to have to open up the carbs and look at your jets screws. take a thin wire poke it through and blow it out.. replace and enjoy the like new feeling ride.

The nut that's louse is bewteen the handlebars and the seat. If it's missing you may have fouled a plug or a plug wires off. If you've forgotten that a bike that's run hard has to have the oil changed real often and you did;nr do it the engine maybe be partly scored up. if the therostate is bad or other cooling system problem has cropped up the engine may be damaged. Start with basic's Spark fuel compression. Thats the order thier cheapest in and good luck

the adjuster is located in the under the sit and if u thinks is easy goahead and try it

can you ajust the cable or replace streched cable

check the wiring it may be caught or being pulled wen turning

it`s very simple there 6 bolts 2 in the front and four in the back two for the tank and the other two for the bracket for the batterie and if yours is like mine then u have to unbolt the gas switch down below on the left side and fish your hoses up through as you pull your tank off u may need two people

Sounds like you need to remove the carbs and dismantle them and clean all the parts real good.
Remember if you separate the carbs from each other you will need to resync the carbs.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, remove the sparkplugs, note and postback the colors of the tip.

Almost always, idling problem is a carb issue (air/fuel mix & amount), On the otherhand, refusing to accelerate past a certain speed (or more particularly, a certain RPM while under load) indicates an air leak. Test drive the bike again and note where it starts to fail to accelerate, consistently on 35MPH or a particular RPM.

Please postback results of above checks.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Part number is 21119-1514

Check the compression in the cylinders, if it is low it can exhibit these symptoms.

2 qts even with filter. 10-40 bike oil only, must be type t or be certified for wet clutch use. will say on the back of bottle, most auto parts have it

Depends if the oil and filter and oil cooler have been dismantled. If not and only the old oil has been drained it should be approx 4lr's, should state this under the oil filler as a guide. If its a complete strip down and rebuild your'll need at least 4.5ltr - 5ltr's so put in 4.5 and run for 5 mins, then check level

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, check:

• black wire from the ignition coil that goes to the CDI;
  
• check the terminal/pin of the black wire at the connector before the CDI;
  
• check the 4 wires from the pickup coil, their connectors and their connections to the CDI.
  

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

BATTERY!

The ignition key switch energizes the CDI then coils

see if the coil packs have power

Please see you other post.