1997 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like you have a sort in the electrics, check the connections and the bulb holder on the back lighting, and the wiring under the seat.

Refer to repair manual,or motorcycle repair shop.

you are going to have to open up the carbs and look at your jets screws. take a thin wire poke it through and blow it out.. replace and enjoy the like new feeling ride.

You definitely need to have your carburetors thoroughly cleaned out and adjusted. Sound like pilot needle's lack of sealing that causes the bowls to overflow into the cylinders.

check the charging system, sounds like it's not keeping the battery charged. You can check it easily with a volt meter. Set the meter on direct current and test voltage directly at the battery. With engine at 3500 RPM it should charging at least 13.6 volts.
I hope this helps.

When you first accelerate the carby injects extra fuel for take off, from the accelerator pump, if this is blocked than you will have a flat spot, which is what you are describing, you need to get the carburettors off and have them checked/serviced/cleaned, if your bike was injected than dirty injectors would give you the same problem.

One of the carb floats is stuck open by sone trash in the carb. Remove the float bowl, float and float needle then use some spray carb cleaner.

There are adjustments on carbs for low speed air intake (air mixture screw)find out factory settings and reset that mixture.Sounds to me like those adjustments are out of sink.If so the bike will run very bad from idle to about 1/4 throttle then run great from there up to full throttle.this definitly sounds like carb problem.

Either the oil is low in the gear box or the selector is out of adjustment.
Unless you are a bike mechanic, it is a job for the Kawasaki agent.

This is a known problem for the 96-97 model.
You can have it welded, (Aluminum!)
But make sure you disconnect the electricity connections from your frame.

More often than not this is an issue with the voltage regulator. The easiest way to tell is to get a multi-meter or ohm meter and test it. You can get cheap testers at Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, etc. for about $5. Basically all you do is touch the positive and negative leads of the tester to the posts on the regulator while the bike is not running and the key is in the off position. If the needle moves at all on the meter, there is current passing through the regulator and it should be replaceed.

Not sure what your asking

U can try a scrap yard or cycle shop.Hope this helps u out.....Maybe e-bay

The kawasaki manual recommends less than 2.7kpa between any two cylnders

The gauges have to all read the same, this is syncronizing the carbs, so all cylnders are working together.

How to change the engine oil. You will need to remove lower part of fairing to access under the engine. There you will find a drain bolt to undo. A large bolt located on the underside of the engine, usualy with an aluminium washer, or O ring. Undo the bolt and catch the oil in a suitable container. This should be done when the engine is warm, as the oil will flow out better. When empty, replace the sump bolt, preferebly with a new washer so it wont leak.
Replace the correct amount of oil back into the bike.
On top of the transfer case will be a plug you can undo by hand, the oil filler, mabey this has a dip stick on it for level. Most Kawasaki also had a site glass for the oil level, on the lowe , side of the engine.

s/h is okay to use if it fits okay and isnt too rusty

you have a bad earth you should check your connections again

this problem can be maintainted by making a new bottom bearing with the help of mechanical engg.

possibly needs a valve adjustment. how many miles on the motor?