kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4
New friction plates and new
Hi and welcome to FixYa!
You may need to adjust the clutch. Try to loosen it a little for if it's too close it tends to slip.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
I have a zzr1100 how can i match up the vin No ,Eng No,frameNo to see if any changes have been made
The best bet would be to contact you local Kawasaki dealer/importer. Most of them are more than happy to help (atleast in my country). Failing that you can;1) Contact Kawasaki Japan and get the factory records which will tie the chassis number to the engine and the year of manufacture. 2) get a copy of the original registration details which should then tie the VIN to fame and engine numbers.i hope this helps,Sid.
High rpm spark
The usual cause of this problem is a coil breakdown- either ignition coil(plug) or timing coil(inside timing sensor) . Check your Spark plugs first though as these can breakdown at high frequency. Check the coil resistance with the values in the manual. If this doesn't give you a pointer then get back to me. Hope this helps.
Help my baby wont start. just getting a clicking
If everything is on and all voltages are proper at the proper time, all that is left is the starter motor. If it is as you say, the engine must be removed to do it, you may want to talk to the service manager at your Kawasaky shop. This is not a job for the faint of heart, and it does require special skills, tools and knowledge.
How to bleed my hydraulic clutch on my 1992
similar to bleeding brakes, pump up the lever, then let the fluid out down at the slave cylnder at the bleed nipple.
May need to turn the bars or lean the bike so ther is no high point at the first banjo bolt on the clutch cylnder.
Its common for the slave cylnder seal to wear out, and this causes fluid loss and air back into the system
Bike ran fine got gas
Drain Carbs in to a clear container and see what is in them......should be plug or screw in bottom of carb and a small hose attached
Kawasaki ZZR1100 C2: Fairing
If the fuel supply is working ok, and filter is already replaced then other possibilities causing this problem can be :-------
Bad ignition triger advance.
Stuck air mass meter flap.
Bad HT coil connection.
---------How's the air filter - clean or dirty? Remove the filter and try running without filter.Just try if for checking purpose.
If it runs smooth with filter removed, then air filter is the issue.-------
The handbook warns against running without a filter in case any dirt gets sucked in, so make sure the airbox is clean before you start it without the filter. If the filter is really sticky I would suspect it does need a clean.
--------The electrical connections on the air flow meter (maf) also require cleaning or at least checking.--------
Also recheck the fuel filters position.I agree its replaced, but still remove and recheck fuel filters position.--------
There is an arrow indicating the direction of the flow.
A good pressure doesn't indicates a good flow and your engine may be starving for fuel.What fuel grade are you filling up the tank with? A lower grade of fuel may causes problems too.
Sometimes things as simple as a bad spark plug cap will generate the same problem.
Also, try to start your bike in a dark area and check if you see any sparks on the coils. You can even mist them with water (when the engine is off) and it will make it easier to see if you have a crack in the insulation.
--------Also the fuel regulator / air flow metering unit could be stiff and responding slowly, that would result in the symptoms you describe. Have you checked it is moving freely?--------Also look for a leak in a manifold, even lose clamps on the rubber stacks. The next is a bad pressure regulator, that makes the fuel richen when the manifold pressure drops off and so would make it bog on initial throttle opening.------------This can mean a few things; partially blocked fuel filter, faulty pump (worm or leaking relief valve), tank not properly breathing, ehh, no doubt there's more. Other thing might be that your cooling water temperature sensor gives a wrong signal and therefore the ECU gives too little fuel.
Take the return fuel line off the tank (extend it/other hose) and put it in a container. Then start the bike and rev her up. See if the return line keeps flowing, even if you rev it; that would secure sufficient pressure through the range (i.e. fuel pump and filter allow sufficient flow). See what that gets you.---------
This troubleshooting will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Kawasaki ZZR1100 C3(1993). Bike
Yes, it should rev much higher. All your driving problems are caused by an air/fuel mixture problem - it's too lean.
You will have to clean the carburetors - the jets are surely dirty by now - and check the level in the bowls. It would be a good idea if you would also clean the tank.
Hello, I have a 90
Mate.My brother has the same bike.They are the original hypabike.I love them.
Just go on the net.You can get anything from brake pads to full system turbo chargers for that bike.They are strong and bulletproof and love to be 'hotted up'.The original ones are starting to up in value.Hope this helps you
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