20 Most Recent 1999 kawasaki ZZR 1100 Questions & Answers

the only part that allows fuel to the crankcase is the needle and seat it may have dirt or a hair that is not allow the float to close of the needle properly so new needle and seat and correct float level adjustment is all that is required

you have the unfortunate circumstance of having some serious electrical issues. What you are describuing sounds like several things got fried and power is going to thing that shouldn't be getting power. First thing is to go through all of your wiring under your dash and under the hood. Then check the wiring to your tranny as well. if all checks out then you need to verify power/no power to all the effected circuits and also what voltages. voltage to the coil may not neccessarily be 12 volts under all conditions. good luck.

HI,,if you have power going to the coils,and no spark then it is your coils that need replacing.

Sounds like your coil unit then mate if coil is new and you put new spark plug in I'd start with that if no joy that's where it can get expensive it maybe the stator plate on the flywheel as they're magnetic and generate the vaultage that creates the spark hope it helps

I think you have to go from the left hand side, and if memory serves it will be to the right of the alternator.

hi to check this out the best way would be to, follow the pipe from the bottom of each bottle, if it goes back to the radiator, then you can be sure it is the coolant bottle, the pipe on top of the bottle will hang down to alow expanding water or airout

if the spark is orange it is week. It should be whiteish blue. Pull back the rubber boot on the cap at the wire end. unscrew the cap and remove, cut about 1/8 inch of wire off and screw the cap back on.check again for spark.check all 4 plugs seperatly. take a flat head screw driver and tighten clip inside plug cap were plug goes. NOT TO Tight you can crack the cap. If this does not help you might need a new coil.

A warped brake disk is usually the cause.

yes some time u need the rite tools but some times u dont give it a try will only work 1 way

try swaping 1 spacers around

Each manufacture has different ranges for different bikes. So the answer would probably be best found in your owners manual for your specific bike. If not, just call you dealer and speak to the guys in service and they should know what temperature your bike should run at.

go to www.ronayers.com and you can look up many microfiche pictures. Hope this helps you... I use it all the time.

If it's definitely oil-smoke (blue-white) it might be worn rings/bores that were the problem or possibly the valve-guides themselves.
What mileage is on the bike?
I assume the oil-level is ok, not too high.
Could also be a head-gasket fault.
If you do a lot of short runs it could also be condensation build-up
coming out as steam, sounds daft but maybe v0v

You should find it under the seat.
It should be round and made from aluminium

Hi ...... You need to support the bike level (front paddock stand) and undo one side pinch bolt then using the hex adapter for that side unscrew anticlockwise ..................... I cant remember whether it's a 15mm or 17mm. The front spindle is threaded both sides. Support wheel & pull spindle out. Assembly is reverse but you have to make sure speedo drive is engaged correctly prior to tightening up.

hi,
its the lights on the bike, instead of being able to switch the left or right indicator on so they are flashing, both are on constantly.

Check inside your fuel tank!

https://japan.webike.net/KAWASAKI/ZZR1100+%28ZX-11%29/CLYMER/472/1988/mb get one of these.. it will give you the trouble shooting instructions..