kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

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Not really it all depends on what you like. There are many after market ones available. You might use this opportunity to pick up a set that is positioned closer to your riding style. You want to be sure to reuse the counter weights also.
Why did your set break? If not from an accident I would revisit a dealer to determine if they were defective. Hope this helps.

JP

yes you can mate i use semi synthetic in my gsxr1000

sounds more like a neutral sensor switch or the wire. if your particular bike requires the deployment of the clutch to start then the same applies to the clutch sensor,

Just from the oil sitting. I recommend oil flush. Also a valve job is not a bad idea either

hi jason,the first thing that springs to mind is that the bike was not designed to have topboxes mounted to them,as the topbox will upset the aerodynamics of the bike and the weight distribution,even the honda goldwings with all of their hard luggagr have a warning from the factory about not exceeding120kph with hard mounted luggage,for the reason i mentioned above,however if you check the steering head bearing tension and compensate for the extra weight carried by adjusting the compression settings on your front and rear susspension,and lifting yourtyre pressure by a couple of psi front and rear it may help to aleviate some of the problems you have,hope this helps

Oil rype is important on wet clutches. Wrong oil will cause this problem. Motor oil is a no no - good luck

get your caborater clean and for more info contact http://tinyurl.com/msfzw7

If it's definitely oil-smoke (blue-white) it might be worn rings/bores that were the problem or possibly the valve-guides themselves.
What mileage is on the bike?
I assume the oil-level is ok, not too high.
Could also be a head-gasket fault.
If you do a lot of short runs it could also be condensation build-up
coming out as steam, sounds daft but maybe v0v

Have you tried downloading bearshare? Get most instruction manuals on that.

go to service center

I remember a training course a few years ago with Suzuki, they said that up to a point, as the more mdern bikes run hotter and or more efficient combustion, they could burn some oil without it actually smoking like a steam train. either you are burning it or it's going in to cooling system via head gasket, which is unlikely as a litre is a fair old lot. suggest you get your compression checked with a tester, and check all of them, look out for differences, maybe just one worn bore.

this cn be a starter problem, better check that area.

Assuming it is a standard cable and not hydraulic, ( I can't remember which your bike has ), Lubricate the cable and change the gearbox oil and filter. Ride for 50 miles or so then change the oil again but not the filter. This will flush out the dirt and grit that is hampering the clutch. Your clutch cable is probably pretty old and in questionable condition. Consider installing a new cable.

Clean your carbs! Your floats might be sticking open a bit. Plus, all Kawasakis have a simple spring-actuated check valve in the fuel valve. This way, you can disconnect the fuel line without having to block the flow. Fuel could be leaking through the check valve. Your problem most liklely identifies dirty gasoline. Clean out your tank, your carbs, and change your fuel filter.

The spec sheet doesn't say if your model has fuel injection or carbs. Assuming carbs, disassemble and clean them. You will want the shop to balance and sync the carbs as well. This should get you back on the road in style.

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I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.

The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.

Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.

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Make your life easy. Call your local Jetski dealer and ask where the oil tank is located. The oil needed is called TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL. Buy the oil from the dealer as a thank you for their help. P.S., wait 30 days and you won't freeze so bad.

You need to clean your carbs. Something is gummed up inside. Most likely pilot jet, but need to clean and synchronize them.