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We have bought Fire and Ice mud flap singnal kit and there is no instructions on install them, We have a five wires system and one wire is white is this the ground or what is it??
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jack the vehicle up and place on a jack stand
remove the wheel
Hold the mud flap in position and mark the hole positions drill the holes using the correct size drill bit for the screws you are using ( should have come in the kit) fit screws
refit the wheel take of jack stand and go to other side and repeat process
find a mech. he will do that.
mud flaps come in 2 kinds
1: universal, be ready to fab up brackets
2: custom made to fit your exact car with instructions.
That depends on the design of the mud flaps. Typically they have holes in the top for sheet metal screws. Look for any existing sheet metal screws in the fender wheel behind the wheel that match with the holes in the flaps - you can just remove those, put the mud flap up and put the screw back in if it is long enough (if the mud flap doesn't have a metal strip across the mounting edge, you'll need a large washer under the screw head to distribute stress across the material or it will crack). If you don't have matching holes, you'll have to drill them. If you are going into steel, use a bit sized for the shank of the sheet metal screw, or just drill the screw in directly. After you get the screw in, take it out and fill the hole with rust-protecting sealant, then put the screw back in. If your mounting hole is on fiberglass or plastic, use a nut and bolt with fender washers under both the screw head and the nut. I recommend either stainless steel or cadmium plated hardware for corrosion protection; this is a harsh environment. If you don't have a straight surface for mounting the mud flap, you may have to bend a heavy galvanized steel strap with holes in it (perhaps a pipe hanger) to make a mounting bracket. Attach one end to the vehicle as described in the previous paragraph, and attach the mud flap to it. I would expect a new mud flap set would include the necessary hardware to adapt it to different vehicles. If you've already purchased a new set without any of this material, you can look at some of the other sets on the market for ideas on mounting brackets. The exact method you use is not critical, so long as it holds the flap without breaking anything (consider the stresses from flapping back and forth and try to envision where the greatest stresses and material fatigue would be), and is reasonably protected from corrosion.
You will need to get some kind of ignition system first. I would recommend getting an MSD. It will come with wiring instructions, and it will be all you need to run the motor.
Its kind of hard to go though a step by step typing, its just alot to explain. What i would do if i were you is by the mud flaps from a land rover dealership they come with instructions!
Suterman, RE: infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid inside RR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ?99 to ?04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported.
SOLUTION:
GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.
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