- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
motor may be bad or it may be stuck try to help it down an it may be a fuse I have change the motor on mine an it was the drivers side it was pretty easy
If water is
getting in from the driver's or passenger's window near the soft top
weather-strip, shut the door after closing the window. When putting up
the hood, lower the windows while you secure the hood latches &
then raise the windows. These actions force the window to contact the
weather-strip a bit differently than when the window is closed while
the door is closed.
There are two
common places an MX5 will leak water into the interior - where the top
meets the windshield frame- and around the windows where they contact the
mouldings. Leaks at the windshield frame are usually caused by dirty
or damaged mouldings or the latches not being tight enough. Usually
you will notice the top will squeak and rattle if it isn't latched
down tight.
Wetness in the
trunk/boot can be caused by a range of factors. 1. Dried out
weather-stripping around the trunk. 2. A cracked rain rail on the
convertible top. 3. Dried out weather-stripping around the tail
lights.
There are three
mouldings that fit around the window, and water can leak either
between them and the window, or between them and the top. Each of
these mouldings is attached to a metal 'track' that is secured to the
top frame with two screws. The window moulding that is closest
to the windshield header is held on by two screws, the others have
nothing holding them.
Water can
collect in the weather-strips due to small crack or splits along the
edge of the hood where it folds after a years of regular top-up
top-down use. The only real solution is a new hood.
you will have to 1st remove your inside door handle and window crank handle, if manual, if it is electric, then you will have to remove door panel, and disconnect the wires that go to the window, and etc. on top of the area where the top of door panel is a rubber moulding, in some instances , moulding would have to be removed, if more room for window removal is necessary. "once you are inside the door, you will most likely see a paper or some type of insulation pad, some call them dust covers, you might need to remove it , if necessary, then locate the fasteners that hold the window into the window regulator, some will have to be removed in order to get the window out of regulator, once window is free, and pulled out, installation is the reverse.
Sounds like the blend door actuator. It separates the driver and passenger side from getting air on the AZC system. Here are some instructions on replacing it: The passenger side blend door actuator is used on all models equipped
with Automatic Zone Control (AZC). This actuator is located on the
front of the HVAC housing to the right of the floor panel transmission
tunnel and cannot be removed from the passenger compartment without
instrument panel or HVAC housing removal.
NOTE: This procedure is for AZC Systems (Passenger side only).
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Sounds like ur window regulator is having difficulty to go up!
Check the window regulator, by opening ur door interior finisher, look at how the windows moves, and NOTiCE the cables that runs across the regulator. check also the sides of the window, where the glass were guided by rubber moulding, see to it that the glass window passes in the middle of the moulding!
The door panel must be removed to get to the wiring. On a 04 250 you need to: pop off the moulding covering the mirror mounting nuts. Pry the window switch plate forward then up to disconnect it, then unplug it . Rmove the screw behind the switch plate and behind the reflector. Push up on the door panel to remove it.
On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle,
arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the
panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want
to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to
get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel
and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and
disconnect the wiring for your controls. Then you can access the bolts that secure the mirror onto the door
sound like there is debris in the belt mouldings (the rubber strip on both sides of the window) usually caused by the outside moulding take a rag and clean it off see if that helps
First are you talking about the weather stripping that goes around were the door close into? If this is it, just pull off the old one clean the area good, brake clean works very well. then put the new one in place I recommend some contact cerment here and there to keep it in place so its not flopping all over you. If this is not the black strip please let me know which piece it is.
×