2004 Chevrolet HD 6L VORTEC: Replaced the knock sensor and am in need of the TORQUE spec for tightening the new knock sensor... HELP?? Thanks!

7 foot pounds is plenty. 84 inch pounds.

Install the cylinder heads. Use new gaskets and tighten the bolts, in sequence, as follows:

1. Step 1: Bolts 1-8 to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)
2. Step 2: Bolts 1-10 verify torque without loosening
3. Step 3: Bolts 9-12 to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm)
4. Step 4: Bolts 1-8 plus 1 / 4 (90 degree) turn
5. Step 5: Bolts 9-12 to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm)

11.2 quarts from dry, including torque converter. When just changing the filter, between 5-7 quarts. Dexron 6 is the best, and newest technology from GM.

Save yourself some time and just tighten the sensor until it is tight and don't over tighten it but just turn it tight. Once it is in run the truck and make sure it is not leaking.

HERE'S A LINK ON HOW TO REPLACE YOUR KNOCK SENSOR. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0996b43f803762d2&partName=Knock+Sensor++KS&partId=0996b43f803762d2 HERE'S WHAT THE KNOCK SENSOR LOOK'S LIKE. http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/knock-sensor/duralast-knock-sensor/kia/rio/2004/4-cylinders-5-1-6l-mfi-dohc/363953_0_0

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire to ease access to the knock sensor.
3. Remove knock sensor shield
4. Remove the connector from the knock sensor.
5. Remove the sensor mounting bolt,
6. Now remove the knock senor.
7. To install reverse the steps above and tighten the bolt to 18 pounds torque.
8. See diagrams for additional help. Note there is one on each side of the engine.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

I had to do this last summer. First I went to Advanced Auto. They
read the code for me. One of them was bad, but I went ahead and
replaced both. I purchased a manual for the steps, two knock sensors
and a gasket set. About 170 dollars total. You will also need a torq
wrench in inch pounds. Take your time, keep it clean. Make sure
you clean the manifold and engine head surfaces where the gasket
seats. Use a non metallic scraper, and if need be solvent to loosen
any old gasket material. I found that laying saturated rags on the
head surface and leaving them set a few hours helped the most.
You can also get the steps and torque specs from either Advance
auto or Auto Zone(then you don't need the manual).
Use patience when tightening the manifold bolts, you should
torque them in the sequence given(in the manual or online) and
you have to do it twice, first time at half torque, then the second at
full torque. If you over tighten you can crack the manifold.
Good luck
Art LeDoux, Stillman Valley Illinois

This should be located behind, underneath, the exhaust manifolds. I can't remember which side it's on, but I think passenger side. It screws directly into the block.

1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts a little at a time, in the sequence shown. Tighten the bolts in three stages:
   • First pass: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
   • Second pass: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
   • Final pass: 65 ft. lbs. (90 Nm)

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1938903/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008eed5

scroll down to about half way down the page , there is step by step procedure for the 1994 5.7 L head installation and torque and tightening sequence . handy dandy site . cheers .

The Haynes manual says for 96 - 98 to torque the head bolts to 22 ft lbs and than the short bolts 45 degrees, medium 55 and long 65 degrees

Those bolts are "Torque To Yield" bolts. You should be using new head bolts, tighten them to the spec listed and then rotate them the additional degrees of rotation that is specified. This assures that the bolts are tightened to a maximum clamp load.

To start out with, be sure to torque from the center out and there is a designated sequence to go in