V6 5-spd fwd. where does the brown wire hook up for dorman rep actuator?

This is what my diagram says.
Green= Ground
Brown= Full time power
Brown/Black= Ignition/accessory Power
Blue/Orange= Amp
Pink= Interior lights
Brown/Black= Interior lights
Black/Org= Amp
The radio shouldn't be getting that hot, try this. Connect only the Green, Brown and Brown/Black wires then turn the switch on and if the radio heats up there's a problem with the radio if not continue to connect wires one at a time and watch for a heavy spark I think the amp is heating up due to a cross circuit connection going to the speakers or the external amp.
I hope this helps. Take care. If I can be of any more help use comment and it will show up in my email.

I hope the diagram/wire colors are readable.

yes the opel astra

I believe that the right side has a blend door actuator, and the left side or driver side just gets air from the regular flow from the programmer and vacuum motors.

Dorman/Blend Door Actuator
Part Number:
604-106 Price: $139.99
Notes: Dorman-OE SolutionsTemperature door. Right

Your actuator works by heating a specific gas and expanding the actuating rod. It is typically about 20-30 seconds. They work faster in warm weather and may not work at all in cold weather if they are old. Check your fuse box for a bad fuse, on my '97 it is # 24. If the fuse is good, your atuator appears to be working. It is just slow. There is a way to upgrade the actuator. Do a search on Amazon for Dorman #600-101 and the appropriate harness, 600-600. The harness plugs in to your original harness and then into the actuator. An extra long wire goes over the tranny to the transfer case wiring block, where you wire into the brown hot wire. Or you can replace the original with Dorman part # 600-100. It will probably work just fine. GM designed the front axle to engage after the transfer case, with a bit of a delay. That's what the original actuator does. The updated actuator is much quicker (2-3 seconds), but most folks have not found this to be an issue. It worked fine on my'94 Dually.

Its possible that you find this information in the ZJ-Secc-8W-Wiring-Diagrams Repair Manual.

Good luck (remember comment and rated this).

unhook all wires and clarify you have the proper diagram and wory bout the wires is says to wire togethe , often you will have extra wires.

On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.

When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.

Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.

I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.

GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.

If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.

Good luck, That actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but check the fuse first in your fuse box.

On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.

When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.

Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.

I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.

GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.

If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.

Good luck, That actuator is usually the problem 90% of time.

Car Radio Wiring Diagrams and Car Stereo Wiring Diagrams