20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers


02 sensor heater on front of engine before cat is is the one

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019


does not matter there is only two and they only go to rad or cooler on front of the rad you the fluid will run either way its a closed loop

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019


under upper intake pass side 3rd injector from the front of truck

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019


i think your clutch may be failing and on its last leg.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019


It's a 4.3 litre V6 engined PU.

These vehicles are not reliable at this age and mileage (nor were they when near new) so you will be buying yourself a repair bill unless a heap of items on the vehicle have been renewed.

At 192000 miles the vehicle is passed it's useful life.

There are numerous problems from bad axle seals to engine and transmission issues, brake problems, various electrical problems, fuel pump failures etc etc. You need to check everything especially the auto which will fail and is not cheap to replace.

High mileage vehicles are rarely a decent buy and are cheap to purchase for a reason.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Oct 22, 2018


It wont kill your engine to run bad oxygen sensors. I ran my 97 silverado 350 for a year on bad ones before I replaced them. The only thing I noticed was a slight drop in fuel mileage. No performance loss or other adverse effects besides the mile or so per gallon drop in mleage. Cleaning them is a very tedious process and probably will not do you much good. Mine were $35 a piece, fortunately I only replaced had to replace 1
First of all. It's not whether it can or can't be cleaned. Anything can be cleaned, if you go about it right. The question should be, first of all, whether cleaning it would do any good, and if so, whether it needs to be cleaned. Oxygen sensors are exposed to such extreme heat that the only thing that it can get (dirty) with is carbon. Extreme heat will turn any organic matter, such as gasoline or oil, into carbon. Well the bad thing about that, is that baked carbon is not soluble in any kind of solvent, and even if it was, the sensing unit within the o2 sensor module, is not exposed, and is not visible. It is covered by what is usually a louvered steel cylinder. Therefor if you're going to brush it, use a wire brush and brush it as hard as you want, because it isn't going to hurt the steel cover. But this is the problem. The only thing that you can really clean with any success is the outer cover. Since solvents won't do any good, I really would not recomend using electric motor cleaner, since the active indredient in it is Trichloroethylene which is not a very strong solvent. not only is it's strength very low, but also, since it is designed to clean electronic components, it evaporates very rapidly, resulting in a very short working time.
Since o2 sensors are disigned to hande such extreme temeratures. The best method of cleaning them, is to heat the bottom part of the sensor (the part that inserts into the exaust) with a propane torch, to the point that it just begins to turn red. You do not want it to glow chery red, even though they are designed to take extreme heat, you can still over do it. Once you have it heated to the point that is just turns red, or to the point just befor it turns red, quench it in water. This will break free any carbon build up inside the sensor. After the first time, some pieces may still be to big to come out of the sensor so I would recomend doing it 2 to 3 times, blowing it out with an air compressor between each time. But I would have to say, good luck, since O2 sensors very seldom fail do to being dirty. This is not common at all.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Sep 03, 2018


You do not want to use dish soap as
that is too hard on the paint
Best to buy car washing soap or just use
the hose & plain water & an old dish towel

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 30, 2018


If you have that spider fuel system, that system is noted for problems. I'd use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, the poppet valves can stick.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 12, 2018


Your spark plug wires are breaking down. The humidity is getting into the micro-cracks and shorting them out.
WD-40 sprayed on the wires will remove the moisture.
('Engine electrical' is one of the uses listed on the can.)
Change the wires.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 06, 2018


Replace the relay seems a starting point to me.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Feb 01, 2018


Is this an s10? If it is, check the wiring harness on the driver's-side of firewall under cowl. Sometimes it gets disconnected about 1/8'', then it won't start...cheers

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jan 26, 2018


It's not the VATS. VATs doesn't prevent cranking. It only prevents fuel. YOu need a wiring diagram to trace the entire ignition and park/neutral circuits

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jan 21, 2018


The blend door may be stuck.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jan 09, 2018


when carb is wide open ????? No carb ,fuel injection ???? Are the injectors being controlled by the PCM / ECM ??? Have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay.???? Did you test first ?

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Oct 07, 2017


How about replacing the coil - might have a thermal issue and shut down when it gets hot.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Aug 18, 2017


Make sure you didn't connect a plug wire to a incorrect spark plug.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jul 21, 2017


See what Rock Auto has to say.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jul 13, 2017


Distributor Installation
Just to add, I don't believe your timing is adjustable.

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Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.

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Remove the distributor cap bolts and discard.Remove the distributor cap.

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Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.

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Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.

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Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing toward the front of the engine.Install the distributor and distributor clamp.

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Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.

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Caution!Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).


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Install the distributor cap onto the distributor.Install the NEW distributor cap bolts. Do not overtighten the NEW distributor cap bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor cap bolts to 2.4 N·m (21 lb in).


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Install the ignition coil wire harness.
indicator tab-nuyl5hn3m3vhiye5vjwyq2nf-1-0.jpg

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jun 26, 2017

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