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the choke light will come on when the choke is on i assume its electric choke if the choke is on vehicle would run poorly flood out and stall if vehicle runs fine then its in the electrics of the choke switch or a bad wire to the choke that says its on even when its not i would start there first.
It depends on the vehicle. Some or all manufacturers have a specific procedure for testing the choke and all its linkages and controls. But just observing your choke in operation from a cold engine (choke butterfly valve barely open) to a warm engine (choke valve fully open) should give you a good idea of how well it works. The electric assist on chokes is mainly for opening the choke a biy sooner than the mechanical operation of heating the spring inside the black choke housing, causing it to expand and open the choke valve.
Believe it or not I used to be a mechanic for chrysler. There are a couple of things to look at and I'm sure you'll find the problem. #1 is to check for any vaccuum leaks in the hoses and the intake manifold.I do this by spraying carb cleaner in little spurts towards a specific area and listen to see if the engine rpm raises while it is running. #2 is a carb problem--Usually with the high idle solenoid (located on the Passenger side of the carb) or the choke. Check to see if you have power at the wires leading to the using a test light or a volt meter before you start it up. If you do have power then start the vehicle or have someone start it for you while you are under the hood and examine the choke operation. B4 you start it the vehicles choke should be completely closed. If it is, it should open as the vehicle warms up when working properly. If not working properly it will either stay closed and cause the vehicle to flood out or run rough and backfire or it will be open(stay open ) and the vehicle will not stay running unless warmed up for sure.# 3 It could also be caused by a combination of the high idle solenoid holding the choke open and then causing the choke to stick open.
Hello, when you say that the auto-choke is "on", you mean that the choke plate is stuck closed on the carburetor. This causes an overly rich fuel mixture and fast idle and other problems as you have hinted at. There is a wire that runs from the black cap on the left side of the carburetor that runs to the alternator. On my Festiva, the wire is red in color and its the only wire coming from the black cap with a bi-metal spring inside. You need to check the wire for a short circuit and to test if voltage is getting to it from the alternator. My guess would be that the wire came loose or it is not being powered by the alternator. So get a 12V test light and test the wire leading to the choke spring cap to see where the break in the wire is. Run a continuity test from one end to the other and look for 0 Ohms for a good connection. If you have continuity and good current, then I would say that your bi-metal spring it broken in the choke cap, so you can replace the cap by removing the 3 screws or rivets and replacing it with a new one.
if its runnjing well for first few mins then chokes up i would suggest auto choke isnt turning its self off ,the cause of this is a miriad of things and to try changing bits ad hoc so to speak will cost more than what it would do to have it in the nissan garage.But dont be surprissed if you need a new ECU unit (computer) but lets just hope its a sensor fault
This might be a sign of low oil pressure. The choke light runs in conjunction with the oil pressure circuit therefore a deficit or problem in the oil pressure signal could subsequently create this choke light.Low oil level can cause this.
Like to other guy said, give it a tuneup. Also try SEAFOAM to clean carb up of slug. Also check to make sure the butter fly for the choke has not come loose, causing it the choke it down. Failed choke pull-off.
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