My IAT/MAF sensor is a five wire hook up, the performance chip is a two wire hook up, which wires do i splice to the IAT/MAF sensor.
Save your money, the chip is a ohm resistor at Radio Shack for under $2.00. It splices in to you IAT wire harness located at the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.
Problem with this system is, that you can not adjust anything and have to run a constant 91 octane just to make sure you do not have a Detonation. The ECM will catch the Detonation from the knock sensor and compensate for it by retarding the timing which in turn lose of HP till next start up.
If you like and don't mind the check engine light on once and awhile, you can do the same by just disconnecting the IAT wire harness which give the ECM a 0 resistance thinking it's -20 out side and turn the timing up and lengths the injector pules.
When i was running a Nitro in the Toy before i sold it, i had installed a 10K ohm Potentiometer which you can buy at radio shack for under $5.00 i believe, I just spliced it in to the IAC wire harness so if i wanted to play with the Nitro I'ld turn the resistor up making the engine think it's 185 degrees F and would ****** the timing so i would not hurt the engine. But if i wanted to get more timing i would just turn the knob to drop the resistance to get more time since the engine thinks it's -20 out side.
Hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need more info. Best thing is to do a dyno tune and you can change everything right down to the Shift points.
SOURCE: I bought a slr motorsport
The IAT is a variable resistance unit and has only 2 connections. One being power and the other signal. The power is the grey/red lead and the signal(connected to the control unit pin 39) is the grey.
Did your chip's manufacturer give you instructions on how to connect ie in series with the IAT or parallel to the IAT?
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