20 Most Recent 2007 Ford F-150 Super Questions & Answers

won't be the plugs it is a fuel problem check the fuel pressure and clean out the injectors possible a problem crank/cam position sensor have the fault codes read first

it is WONT!

Check this procedure on F-Series...5.4L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove the transmission.
3. Drain the engine oil.
4. Disconnect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove the nut and the starter wiring harness support bracket.
6. Remove the nut and position the transmission oil cooler lines and bracket aside.
7. Remove the 16 bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
8. Remove the 3 bolts and position the oil pump screen and pickup tube into the oil pan. NOTE Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket. It is reusable.
9. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump screen and pickup tube.
10. Inspect the oil pan gasket for damage. If damaged, discard the oil pan gasket and the oil pan-to-oil pump gaskets. Discard the oil pump screen and pickup tube O-ring seal.

To install: WARNING Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.

1. Inspect the oil pan. Clean the mating surface for the oil pan with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
2. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube in the oil pan and position the oil pan into the vehicle. WARNING Make sure to install a new O-ring seal. A missing or damaged O-ring seal can cause foam in the lubrication system, low oil pressure and severe engine damage. NOTE Clean and inspect the mating surfaces and install a new O-ring seal. Lubricate the O-ring seal with clean engine oil prior to installation.
3. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube and install the bolts.
4. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-oil pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
5. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-spacer bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
6. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block sealing surface. NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
7. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the engine front cover-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
8. Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan and loosely install the 16 bolts.
9. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages, in the sequence shown. Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.). Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
10. Install the wire harness bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
11. Position the starter wiring harness support bracket and install the nut. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
12. Connect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
13. Install the transmission.
14. Fill the crankcase with clean engine oil.

Fig. Remove the bolts and the crossmember-F-150 and Mark LT 5.4L EngineFig. Position a suitable hydraulic jack under the front axle-F-150 4WDFig. Remove the upper front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WD

Fig. Remove the axle shaft housing carrier bushing bolt-F-150 4WDFig. Remove the lower front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WDHope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Dashed lines mean you can pass if safe to. Solid lines mean no passing or crossing.

I believe they are on the firewall behind the battery passenger side

• Actually check batt voltage.. 12 -13 V
• Check Batt cables.. remove them and clean them.
• Check Alternator output.. 14V.. Is it getting to the battery? check battery while running engine.. should be receiving the 14+V Check it at the post.. not the outer edge of the cable.
• Check Battery ground cable at chassis connection.. remove and clean..
• Check Pos Cable at starter.. Remove and clean.
• Last.. Remove starter and take to a Auto Zone or Oreilly Auto parts and let them check it for you.

Sound like your fuel pump is loosing prime. May look into replacement.

could be top/bottom ball joint easy to check ,jack up so wheel off ground hold wheel at 12 o'clock and 6o'clock (the position not the time) and wobble back and forwards then do the same but holding at 3 an 9 if notice movement further investigation needed,while you wobble wheel get someone too look at top/ bottom ball joints ,track rod end if they dont appear to be moving then more than likely bearing this is best done with vehicle on a lift but should be able to carry out on the ground the cv joint could also be responsible but would need a garage to determine as a bit more complex

Cam Actuators & maybe timing chain (worn plastic guides) If the lifters were sticking your done If you have to remove the front cover on the motor, your there two days ,just to get it apart.

possible a broke blend door for the ac unit

Low levels of power steering fluid can cause the steering to suddenly become hard and stiff---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------FGTech Galletto 2-Master EOBD2

We do not have part numbers, no way to look them up. Contact Ford parts dept on this.

this is a code for fuel tank pressure sensor.It s located on top of the fuel tank.Or possibly a kink in a line someplace.Most likely you need to change the sensor.

Did you ever find out what was wrong? My radio was doing exactly the same. Popped, shut off, came back on later, repeat.... Email me a reply if you wouldn't mind, I only found this site searching for a solution to the radio problem.
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selecvtor is stuck

I can't tell you the length but the diameter of brake lines is commonly 3/16" and rarely bigger - some older vehicles and heavier vehicle use 1/4". The size of the pipe is intuitive by simple comparison or measuring with a caliper but there is several different threads, lengths, diameters of pipe nuts in common use and it is important to get these right first time. It is also very important the replacement pipe is formed exactly as the original, follows exactly the original route and is adequately secured. When one brake pipe fails usually others aren't far behind and the failure of a pipe should signal a very close examination of the others, especially looking for corrosion scale or pitting close to the wheels. Replacing four or five pipes on a large vehicle can use a whole 25 foot roll of pipe. It might be better to invest in a cheap pipe flaring kit and the materials to produce your own pipes - or remove the old pipes and ask a local repairer to make new pipes to those patterns. That was my job as an apprentice and I must have produced a mile of pipes for outside customers.