Subaru Legacy - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

hi could you confirm the firing order you have? witch pulse signals are being received. thanks

Put a pressure test on the cooling system and the leak should show.Also check the engine oil level,is it clean oil,coolant free,does the dip stick show any traces of coolant?

have the front suspension checked out most likely a failed suspension arm rubber has failed check fro failed engine mounts

What code was on the computer? That could tell you what caused the problem. If it was a p0300-p0304 code that could mean a piece of carbon grounded a spark plug causing the miss and then burnt off.

have the fault codes read first if the transmission oil has not been changed , that would be a good move after reading the fault codes

this is for the 2.5L engine

Tap the doors with a rubber hammer at the lock area firmly.DO NOT DENT THE DOORS.Manually try to lock and unlock the door while tapping it,once unlocked, open the door,remove the trim panel on the door and lube the lock assembly with a correct lubricant suitable for your vehicle.Try the locks a few times before reinstalling the trim panels.DO NOT USE WD40.

don't be surprised if there is no gasket there during manufacture , they use adhesive sealant on properly machined surfaces the bolts could be a bit loose cost will be the quotes you get from accredited specialist transmission shops but don't be surprised it they include removing the power train ( engine / transmission to do the job as that may be the quickest way to do it

Sounds like a water pump problem. You did put the belt back on?

might be due to the battery being bad and may need replacement but if the battery is holding a charge then it might be due to a short out in some place

I would disconnect the compressor before pulling fuses. The fuse may be operating other things of value (body control module) You may always have that light on unless u take it to a specialist.

Need to narrow down whether it's mechanical, as in a chipped starter gear or misaligned starter, or electrical connection. See if the starter solenoid is consistently getting power when you turn ignition key

Doesn't take a technical engineer to find what could be the problem ! Looking a wiring diagram I see three relays that are used to turn on the cooling fans ! One of the relay's contacts are stuck closed causing Battery voltage to be applied to one of the fans when you turn the key to the on position . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

How many miles do you have on the car? Are there any leaks? Are there any funny sounds when you try to start the engine? Any knocking sounds?

you will likely need to replace the following: Duty C Solenoid Transfer Clutch Pack Reduction gear All of these parts are located in the tail end of the 4EAT automatic transmissions. The reduction gear can separate from its hub and damage the above mentioned parts too.

Sounds like throttle position sensor is not working properly. Good luck mai

something is wrong if there is no signal from the cam or crank sensors , it will not start or run maybe the scan tool is not operating correctly if it starts then idles then dies , that could be the maf sensor

If your vehicle has a MAF (mass airflow sensor), try disconnecting it and running the vehicle. If it runs ok ... suspect the MAF. Commonly, a fault with the MAF does not cause an engine check light

Try getting a boost to roll up the windows. If the battery volatage is too low little to nothing will work and the car can shut off while driving. This is usually from the alternator having problems and not providing the power necessary to keep the car running. If power to the battery does not help the issue then you can remove the trim around the base of the gear selector to gain access to the shift lock bypass. Its a hidden button that will allow the selector to move without power to the transmission to make towing the car possible.

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