Top 20 1998 Subaru Legacy Questions & Answers

I suggest you get one of those manuals people get nowadays to do it yourself.. My nephew use it to repair my car and it's totally repaired now. Here's the website he got it from. www.reliable-store.com

Speed sensor may be giving a false reading .

have the front suspension checked out most likely a failed suspension arm rubber has failed check fro failed engine mounts

Doesn't take a technical engineer to find what could be the problem ! Looking a wiring diagram I see three relays that are used to turn on the cooling fans ! One of the relay's contacts are stuck closed causing Battery voltage to be applied to one of the fans when you turn the key to the on position . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

you will likely need to replace the following: Duty C Solenoid Transfer Clutch Pack Reduction gear All of these parts are located in the tail end of the 4EAT automatic transmissions. The reduction gear can separate from its hub and damage the above mentioned parts too.

You need to clear the codes first. Check fuel pressure.

The knock sensor and o2 sensor readouts are from wrong or no detonation and the UN burned fuel leaving exhaust , not faulty sensors , sounds like a compression problem but could be many things

check fuses

USUALLY A BOX UNDER THE HOOD. YOU CAN SOMETIMESA TELL BY PULLING ANOTHER ONE THAT IS EXACTLY STHE SAME, SUCH AS HEADLIGHTS OR WIPER. IF YOUR HEADKAMPS OR WIPER WORK, AND THEY USE THE SAME RELAY, TRY PULLING THE STARTER RELAY AND SWAPPING WITH ONE YOU KNOW WORKS.

Remove battery from key less remote, if the problem with flashing lights and battery drain is solved then replace remote.

First check the fuses. Especially if all the lights in back are out at once. Then check the bulbs. Sometimes you have to replace bulbs that still look good, but just don't make good enough contact anymore.... A friend of mine had to replace all the bulbs to get any of them to work again. I have no explanation as to why.... Good Luck.... Sometimes on these older cars, just pulling the fuse and replacing it a time or two - cleans it off and gets it to work again.... Much like dirty battery cables can stop the flow of electricity, so can dirty connectors on a fuse, or bulb.

Have you tested fuel pressure? If you have no pressure the next step would be to test all relays and fuses. Next jump the fuel pump and see if the pump kicks on. If not, bad fuel pump, if it does fire, then the security system might be disabling the pump. Make sure all fuse and relays are good b

check fuel pump wiring underneath rear seat, they melt and might short out inside to earth.

A dealer can cut a key from the VIN.

Clean your MAF sensor and throttle body. If it's dirty it will send wrong voltage to ECU, running either too lean or too rich, most likely too rich and flooded the fuel injectors.

Sounds like weak connection somewhere,I would start by one at a time,clean by scraping the prongs of each fuse. If this does not resolve your issue go by one of the parts houses that provide free electrical and charging system checks

1) Remove air cleaner box 2) Disconnect battery 3) Remove 2 bolts that mount starter 4) Remove wires at starter 5) Remove starter 6) Reversr order to install

Did you connect returned hoses correctly?

if the engine has a knock sensor it is attached to the block between cylinders on the outside.

IT is a constant all wheel drive car which means that all 4 wheels are driven all of the time . There is a differential in the centre that allows for different speeds between front and back while driving such as going over bumps . When you engage the 4wd button you are in effect locking that centre diff so that both front and rear axles drive together. If you have it so that 4wd is not engaged (selected ) and there is no drive action to the rear wheels that then indicates that the shaft in that centre diff is not connected in the side gears ( stripped /broken) and it has been in 4wd all the time so that it could be sold