20 Most Recent 1994 Buick Regal Gran Sport - Page 5 Questions & Answers

This could be a lot of things, but the first thing I would check is the water temperature sensor that tells the fuel injection system how hot the water in the engine is. If the fuel injection thinks the car is cold, it supplies extra fuel and eventually the engine floods. This should set a check engine light and code, although the code in this situation will usually point to some other component that does not agree with the water temperature sensor rather than to the actual culprit.

your engine rellay its getting hot check for open wire or even cheaper change rellay

It has a paper gasket behind it. The oil pressure switch could be leaking too.

Hello
On a car this age you will need to find a used one a new part is no longer available. You can search 100's of auto salavage yards by using a used part locater "Used Part Request Form", then salvage yards nation wide that have the part will contact you via email. I've used the service to find many hard to find used parts for older cars like yours. Here is a link to one such used part request form, The URL web link below is to a site I have personnely used. Just Click the link below

http://www.car-part.com/

P1361 Ignition control not toggling?? what to do? Do I replace the Ignition control ?

If you look closely on the place where all the buttons are (radio, clock, etc.), there will be two small buttons, usually with M for minute and H for hour labeling them. Hold the buttons for a couple seconds, and the clock will usually change

could be brake light switch but i would be more inclined to think the signal switch is bad, the brake light circuit goes from the pedal to to the turn signal switch then to the taillights

You have a current draw somewhere. Often times glove box light, radio, trunk light. These things you can't see because when you open them light comes on anyway. There is another method, it sucks. Take keys out of car. Turn every thing off. Close all doors and trunk. Open the hood, if you have a hood light, unplug it. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Place a test light between them. Clamp one end to the negative battery post and the other end to the disconnected negative battery cable so that there is still a connection but ONLY through the test light. Your test light should be lit up, this shows you a draw. Now if you have a fuse box under the hood, pull the fuses out one at a time keeping an eye on the test light. After pulling the fuse out and watching for the light to change, put that fuse back in and move to the next one. A very slightly noticeable dim is ok, what you are looking for is a big drop in the brightness in the light. This will indicate the largest draw. If you don't notice a large drop in brightness here, go inside the car and close the door once you are in. The door can not be open because that tells the dome light to come on and that will give you a false draw. Now while you are in and everything still off and all doors closed crawl underneath and and pull out the fuses inside there too just as you did for the other fuse box. If you get that fairly significant dim on your test light by pulling a fuse, THAT is the circuit that has the draw. Look to see what that fuse goes to and that narrows it down drastically. Good luck!

I have done this before, mine sprung apart when I did the master cylinder, but I can't tell you exactly how I got it back together, only that it is possible and don't get too frustrated. Hopefully this article helps a little. Please don't give me a rating if you don't use my answer. No rating is better than a negative and it costs you nothing if you use another answer.

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/062001_04.pdf

buy a filtre strap or chain should do

Check your belt on the alternator, it may be slipping, or your alternator bearings may be grabbing causing your alternator to let the belt slide on it. Also check the battery connections, as they maybe corroding and causing interruption of the voltage. Take each connection off one at a time and clean the inside of the clamp with fine grit sand paper or emery cloth. Reclamp.

Your vehicle's Coolant Temperature Sensor is screwed directly into your intake manifold. It is easy to replace. A new unit will run about $100.

The FixYa Team

Hello your best place to find a replacement is at the auto wreckers recyclers the positive connection terminal can easily be purchased used probably $25.00 to $50.00.

Blown Fuse, I'd bet. Check the owners manual for fuse block location. There are probably two locations on that model. One is usually on the passengers side right side of the dash. Plastic panel that says "FUSES". The other may be under the hood but I would bet the fuse you need is the on on the passengers side.

if the mail and female connectors match..i think it should be ok. most after market wire colors are diffrent from factory. as long as the parts house you bought it from was given the right info you should befine. good luckto you.

IT IS ON THE ENGINE BETWEEN THE RADIATOR AND ENGINE BLOCK. RIGHT UNDER THE FRONT EXHAUST MANIFOLD.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove cooling fan assembly.
3. Remove serpentine drive belt.
4. Remove A/C compressor upper support brace.
5. Lay A/C compressor in fan opening.
6. Raise and support vehicle.
7. Disconnect engine oil cooler lines at flex connection.
8. Remove bolts from flywheel inspection cover.
9. Remove bolts from starter.
10. Disconnect starter motor wiring.
11. Remove starter motor.
12. Reverse procedure to install. Torque starter motor attaching bolts to 32 ft. lbs.
13. 
    

under your driver side knee panel