20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

With door unlocked put key in the ignition. Cycle on and off position with key 8 times without turning the truck on within 10 seconds. Door locks should lock and unlock indicating in programming mode. Press any key on your fob. Should be programmed.

Start by cleaning the battery terminals. That's the symptom of an intermittent connection

NO START ??????? When you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens ? Or the engine spins an doesn't start an run ?

Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

That is the ignition module associated with the dist. if so equipped. If no distributor, cold be electronic spark block fro spark distribution.

The best thing would be to have transmission control module - ( computer ) checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes . The flashing O/D light is trying to tell you that . The transmission is in limp home mode . A sensor or shift solenoid is most likely the problem . Your transmission is electronically controlled , has sensors , shift solenoids , an a computer that controls it all , plus electrical signals (inputs) from the engine computer .

code p 1151 refers to the heated oxygen sensor(HO2S), bank 2 running lean===causes --intake /exhaust leak/s,-- HO2S sensor bank 2 ---wiring ---ECM replace the heated oxygen sensor ( in the exhaust manifold before the cat converter)using the correct tube spanner to avoid damage to the sensor wires the problem of apparent in and out of drive indicates a wiring problem to the transmission in either the torque converter clutch servo/ solenoid or TCM

Vacuum leak? MAF sensor dirty? Should be some codes. don-ohio

Check the pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Pull off the vacuum line and see if there is gas in the line.

P0176 - Flexible Fuel (FF) Sensor Circuit Malfunction
"The FF sensor input signal to PCM is continuously monitored. The test fails when the signal falls out of a maximum or minimum calibrated range."

This sometimes requires replacement of the FF sensor which is part of a larger assembly. It is very expensive ($400?). Before throwing any parts at it, I would run some more fuel through it and reset the PCM by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or two.

Here is the complete list of possible causes from Ford:

-Open or short in FF sensor VPWR circuit
-Open in battery ground to FF sensor circuit
-Open in FF sensor signal circuit
-Short to ground in FF sensor signal circuit
-Fuel contamination
-Short to VPWR in FF sensor battery ground circuit
-Short to VPWR in FF sensor signal circuit
-Fuel separation
-Damaged FF sensor
-Damaged PCM

Check and tighten the engine firewall connector that all cab wiring exits through. I suggest you loosen the large connector and then reinsert, it may have water intrusion.

1-3-4-2 What is the firing order on 2000 ford ranger 2 5

Crank or camshaft sensor

Does the code reader power up ? Is there battery voltage at pin #16 in the DLC ? Does no communication show on code reader ? Are any of the pins bent ? Post a pic !

here is a web site, hope this is what you are looking for! it 's the same from 1996-2007! http://www.autogenius.info/ford-ranger-1996-fuse-box-diagram-usa-version/

They make a module to bypass the PATS system. It is needed to install after market remote start but it should work on your Ranger. Here is a link to Amazon webpage. Amazon com Directed Electronics 555P Ford Pats Bypass Module Automotive

On top of AC Accumulator

You could pull the fuel pump fuse to dry out the cylinders. Could be a faulty fuel pressure regulator, injector(s) or wiring problem.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment. If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money. Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause. 1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on. 2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on. 3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off. 4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test. Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

Check out this video it could be an easy fix, bad sensor the part is under $20