20 Most Recent 1991 Ford F350 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

i assume you are talking about a 1991 ford f350. if so i believe the blinker switch or blinker switch fuse is located on the fuse box underneath the dash board. you'll have to remove the dash board "belly pan" to gain access to the fuse box. the blinker fuse is a shiny square "odd" looking push in fuse. i believe it has a small aluminum casing on the fuse itself.

but....
it could also be a fuse relay witch is located under the hood on the driver's side fender well, but i'd check the blinker fuse first...

check your brake booster and also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up where they belong. If they are not adjusted up the brake pedal will go farther and farther toward the floor and get spongier as they go farther out of adjustment. If you adjust them up and they back down again change your self-adjusters and springs. They are readily available at your local parts store.

the culprit could be your fuel filter or the vacuum advance on your distributor.i recomend to replace filter and also do a manuel check of vacuum advance on distributor.

have you put a new filter on since the problem cos i sounds like air getting in . some times wen people put new filter on they leav the old seal in it and it dont make a good seal or both the new and old are ther. but that is defenatly air

I think the timer is under the sloinoid wich is under the airfilter. My timer went out so i just ran some wires from the sloinoid to a toggle switch in my truck and just warm em up like that, i just took the timer out of the equation

bad ground

The 7.3 is the only diesel engine available for that year and model, so if it's a diesel, yes, it's the 7.3. Gas engine availability was the 4.9 (in 2 wd only), 5.8, and 7.5-all these are gas engines.************************* I believe you have dual tanks? They should hold 17 to 18 gallons each.

you will find that it may be the glow plug timer is faultycausing the glow plugs not getting hot enough

the ALT should charge from 13 v to 15.75 v less than that u need to replace the alt and u can check by ur self by use any voltmeter

Not too much of a problem really.....you want to have a pretty empty tank. Your pump is in the gas tank. Best way to do it is have a digital camera in hand and take plenty of photos . Easy part is dropping the tank, unstrapping it, undo the wires and hose/tubing....remember to replace the gasket.

It's easy, take your time and you can do it. No special tools required.

the hot wire from the battery too the alt has a short in it
where it says batt on the back of the alt replace that wire all the way too the seloniod
it lays right up against the engine and shorts out and the heat makes it brittle

Check your battery voltage while cranking. If it's too low, the electronics won't work and the injectors won't fire. If the batteries are down a bit, there won't be enough power to turn the engine over fast enough to start. It needs a minimum of 100 rpm and 8 volts while cranking. You also might try waiting till you're sure the GPR has dropped out. That takes the GP load off the batteries and may get the voltage up enough to get it to start, oh and also does the tach move when you're cranking? If not, then chances are the CPS is the culprit.

gas pedal is a cable check near throttle body
there could be a fuse for the door locks or its the switch or actuator not related to the gas pedal
with the hissing sound
What i have encountered while doing compression checks while engine cranking and there is a hissing noise from exhaust it means there is a exhaust valve not seating properly or the valve seal is going bad.

bad glow plug harness

check tps throttle position sensor.

To willmc8608
From [email protected]

If the Therostat housing is mounted on the left front of the engine, unbolt the alternator and it's mounting, then unbolt the vaccum booster pump, this will reveal the mounting bracket to the fuel filter assembly mounting braket, unbolt the supports to the assembly and move to the side. Two bolts hold the therostat inlet ini place.

It should be located in a housing on top of the engine.

• You'll need a bucket.
• This is also a good time to do a coolant flush or replacement
  

1. Follow the hose from the top of your radiator to the engine. This is the thermostat housing.
2. Remove this hose from the engine and collect the fluid in the bucket.
3. Remove the (usually 2) bolts holding the housing to the engine.
4. The small round object inside is the thermostat. It's usually loose but if you have severe corrosion, you may have to pry it out with a screwdriver.
5. Replace the thermostat.
6. Re-install the housing and hose.
7. Top off your coolant with new fluid
8. Dispose of old fluid properly (This stuff is poisonous!)
   

either you have loose connections to the glow plugs or the fuseable link to the glow plugs is bad check this out and i'm sure your problem will stop. please rate the solution..thanks

bad thermostat

water pump very possible take off radiator cap run engine do you see flow or is the water bursting out how tight is the upper hose when running at any temp you may have a blown head gasket or clogged catalytic converter