20 Most Recent 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab - Page 9 Questions & Answers

it is on the drivers side frame rail right under the cab of the truck

normally an adjusting screw on them maybe that ?

Hi,

As per Ford's manual - ITS ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE COWL(BEHIND THE TRIM) BELOW THE INSTRUMENT PANEL.

let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Check the timing chain for looseness.

www.lmctruck.com has them ask for free catalog

there are four phillips screws in the hood gap area, remove the wiper arms, and then it pulls out from the chrome (alloy) trim.

is the smoke kind of white and when you check the oil does it look like milk or when you take the oil filler cap off can you see anything wrong with the way the oil looks kind of white creamy? if so you have a head gasket gone and you should change it

Hello! There are two sensors that will cause this problem both can be tested...If you have a volt meter...If not, let me know...
#1 is the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS)...A black round device that is bolted to the throttle body with a three wire connector...Wire colors are...Gray/White...Brown/White...And Gray/Red...Using two safety pins plug them into the rear of the in place connector on the Gray/White...And Brown/White...Place + probe of meter set to read 5 volts on the Gray/White...And - probe on Brown/White...Start engine...At idle must read less than 1 volt (.85)...As you slowly increase throttle meter must rise smoothly to 4 volts at open throttle...If voltage jumps or acts erratic the sensor is defective...

#2 is the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor...Also mounted to throttle body...Three wire connector with the following wire colors...Light Green/Blue...Gray/Red...And Brown/White...Using the same technique...Pin the rear of the connector on the Light Green/Blue...And the Brown/White...Place + probe on Light Green/Blue and - probe on Brown/White...Turn key to on (don't start)...Record reading...Move Light Green/Blue probe with safety pin and push it into the Gray/Red wire...Record reading....Also check the vacuum line which is connected to the Map Send results...

Cost...TPS=$55............MAP=$95

Guru.................Saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Try looking under the passenger side carpet up towards the firewall or kick panel

Diesel problem can break these problematic areas.

fuel
electric lift pump
fuel filters
glow plugs/glow plug relay
key sensor (if equipped)

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Check the glow plug resistance.
They should read around 3 to 6 ohms.
Replace/inspect glow plugs and glow plugs relay.

A fit diesel engine CAN start with compression alone (with glow plugs)

Carbon can build up on the glow chamber (inside the head) to prevent the heating.

Use WD-40 or PB Blast to soak the chamber. Protect the surrounding area with paper/plastic and let the engine compression to blow out the carbon.

Check compress if you has a high pressure tester.
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Replace fuel filter
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Check for lift pump operation (it may be an aftermarket unit)
Check voltage at the pump terminal
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Certain post 1997 Ford has ignition disable circuit.
Use your spare key to start the truck to rule out a bad transponder on the key.
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I need more information on the followings

old diesel fuel?

odometer reading

Did you back probe for pulse from the cranks position sensor CAS/CPS at the computer (ECU) end.

Late model Ford diesel has a dye sensor that detect fuel quality. If you has the factory sticker then please check is your truck equip with one.

This unit sense for color dye for diesel. It will shut down engine if the fuel quality is below grade.

Example: home made bio-diesel

low quality bio-diesel that does not pass ATSM test will form wax. Avoid bio-diesel station.

What problem did the truck has when it get to your shop?

You can enter more information on the comment page by clicking upper right hand corner.

Check alternator voltage, in back of alternator, on the thick wire that is bolted to the stud, with engine running should have no less then 13 volts, if you do, then we know for sure alternator is good, check for bad fuse link at starter solenoid, depending which one you have, on starter on on the fender on passenger side, fuse links most of the time will have a small tab on the wire it self, pull gently on wire if it feels like a rubber band, bad fuse link, also if you can't find it, you could also run a new wire (thick 6 gaug) from alternator to battery.

LOOK ON FAR BACK LEFT OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.LOOK FOR THE ACCUMULATOR THE CHARGE PORT ON THE ACCUMULATOR YOU WILL SEE A BLUE CAP ON IT.

Hi!!

The EVAP System purge valve may be clogged, replace canister, the fuel tank return line may be inoperative, PCV valve clogged, fuel pressure sensor on fuel pump may be defective, fuel pressure regulator on fuel injectors rail defective.

Keep me posted, Good Luck!

Again check your cam sensor

has the wire to the fuel shut off solinoid come loose or adrift

Here's the solution: You might want to park it under a tree and tie a rope to the door to pull it up when loosened.
ADJUSTMENT Fig. 1: Door hinge adjustment
Fig. 2: Rear door hinge adjustment, F-350 Crew Cab
NOTE: Loosen the hinge-to-door bolts for lateral adjustment only. Loosen the hinge-to-body bolts for both lateral and vertical adjustment.

1. Determine which hinge bolts are to be loosened and back them out just enough to allow movement.
2. To move the door safely, use a padded prybar. When the door is in the proper position, tighten the bolts to 19–25 ft. lbs. (25.5–34.5 Nm) and check the door operation. There should be no binding or interference when the door is closed and opened.
3. Door closing adjustment can also be affected by the position of the lock striker plate. Loosen the striker plate bolts and move the striker plate just enough to permit proper closing and locking of the door.