20 Most Recent 1990 Ford F350 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You have air in the system, no matter that you bench bled the Master cylinder, air got in the system that is the only cause of this symptom other than a defective new part. Follow the guide lines below to bleed brakes.

To properly bleed the brakes, start with a couple of 8-ounce cans of fresh brake fluid. An unopened can has a long shelf life. An opened can should be discarded within a few weeks. Get the vehicle up in the air and remove all four wheels, you might be able to do this with the wheels on if you can swing a wrench on the bleeder valves. PLease read through the instructions completely before you start work, do not let the Master cylinder run dry of fluid.

Have a helper pump up the brake pedal, then open the right rear brake bleeder and bleed it until you don't hear anymore air bubbles coming out and the fluid stream is steady, next move to the left rear wheel and repeat, then to the right front and bleed that wheel cylinder, then repeat at the left front wheel cylinder. A tip hear, soak the bleeders with WD40 before you try to crack them open, DO NOT STRIP/ROUND OFF THE CYLINDER BLEEDERS, Use a box end wrench to get a good bite on the bleeders. When all the air is out of the system the fluid will be steady and not make a spurting noise, do not run the master out of fluid!

Hi, I'm assuming you have the AOD transmission. If the information I provide doesn't match with what you see, please get back to me with engine size and transmission, info, if possible. Below is a picture of the sensor and also the location on the transmission. Thanks for using FixYa.

The switch is located above the gas pedal. It is on the rod that pushes the clutch master cylinder.

This link may help you.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/498954-super-duty-and-heavy-duty-______super-duty-tech-folder_____.html

Check the flasher that is located under the dash, sometimes there on the fuse box.

fit a relay under the bonnet and a manual push button type switch on the dash cant beat a manual overide

you may have a loose wire some were conecting to alternater.

if not, first you may have to take the alternater from the engine
at the rear of the alternator you will find two plastic tabs protruding slitly from main body
of alternator
these are known as brushes, take them out .the tips of these, are made of carben.
thay are normaly one inch approximatley.in length, when new.
if less than half an inch, you may need to replace them.
this may be your problem.
if still not charging you will have to replace alternator as the armature maybe worn to eccece.

#1 Disconnect the battery ground cables from both batteries.#2 Drain fuel from the fuel filter into a sutable container.#3Remove the water drain tube from the bottom of the filter assembly.#4 Unscrew water separator drain bowl and remove. Remove the filter element.#5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.Screw a new filter element onto the filter base until seal contacts ,then tighten filter one half to 1 turn.I hope this is helpfull, good luck.

go to autozone.com get yourself a free profile, add your ford to it, and then you can use there free online repair manual for your truck, that will give you repair guides, and specifications, such as torque, and engine specs.

i believe 140 foot pounds.

if it is a gas engine it should use 5 quarts, unless it has a heavy duty oil cooling system, then it may need up to seven quarts. Fill the motor with the first five quarts, the check the oil level with the oil dipstick. If its still low add one half of a quart at a time while checking level each time you add a half quar untill it show full on the oil dipstick..

negative back pressure/ low pressure

MOST TIME GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER ON THE REAR OF INTAKE MANIFOLD CAUSES GLOW PLUG PROBLEMS.YOU HAVE TO USE 12 VOLTS TEST LIGHT TO SEE IF POWER GOING TO GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER.IF NOT YOU HAVE BLOWN FUSE OR FUSE LINK.IF POWER GOING TO GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER.THE CONTROLLER IS FAULTY OR THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE SWITCH IS BAD.

You still need to run what the manufactorer states regardless of the age and mileage. You did not mention gas or diesel, assuming gas then it should be 5-20 or 5-30

Well, I doubt it is low. I can't think of any Transmission that holds 6 quarts unless your torque converter was completely drain and even then I don't think it holds 6 Quarts. Pints maybe but not quarts. If the Torque converter was burned because you where driving it without fluid it would in fact give you this condition. I recommend you get a floor jack and elevate the whole front end and see if you can free spin the front wheels while the engine is running. Then repeat this test on teh rear wheels. Make sure you have the truck on level ground, block the front wheels and in neutral with the emergency brake released. Sounds like you might have a stuck caliper or your rear drums are locked by the pads or a sticking parking brake system. Every time you hit the brakes hard when backing up the auto adjuster on the rear brakes tightens them and it is possible they have tightened too far. I would check the brakes first then if they are good and the wheels are free turning by hand take the vehicle to a transmission shop and have the transmission checked.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4_hy5X31b4&p=A0A805E16A6EB179&playnext=1&index=28

hope this helps