20 Most Recent 1991 Dodge Dynasty - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi Cole, The speed sensor is a cylindrical piece of equipment that fits onto a retaining housing usually behind the brake assembly on each wheel. They are maybe two inches long and half to three quarters of an inch in diameter. They have electrical cables connections one end and magnetic coil pick ups on the other. Regards John

Does it die, or is the problem as you state "loss of power"? I would start by checking the ignition system: When the car is warmed up and showing this problem, check for spark at a plug wire. You should have a blue snapping spark, watch for it while someone cranks the car over. Do you know how to check for spark? Use insulated or heavy glove or insulated pliers to hold plug wire end 1/4 inch from a grounding source on the engine, like a bolt or some metal piece. If you get it close to the metal while car is cranked you won't get shocked, the spark will travel from end of wire to ground. If you don't want to hold the wire, pull the spark plug out, attach it to the plug wire, and lay the plug on the engine with the spark pljug threads touching metal. Now watch for spark traveling from the spark plug end to the little electrode on the end of the plug. Remember, a good blue snapping spark. Orange spark is a weak ignition problem, as is an intermittent spark, only sparking occasionally. If you have a good blue spark, the ignition is probably good.New pump and new filter, so fuel pressure at the engine should be good, unless the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. You may need to have the fuel pressure checked.I think you can access the computer's trouble codes on your car through the ignition switch, if you know how to read and translate the flashing engine light into two digit trouble codes. Put key in ignition switch, turn on, off, on, off, and then ON: now codes will start flashing. Code 11 is a flash, 2 second pause, another flash. Code 22 would be a flash, pause, flash, 2 second pause, then 2 quick flashes. There is a 3 or 4 second pause between each code being displayed, if more than one code is stored. Write them down as they flash. If you get mixed up, just turn key off, and start again. Once you get them, post them here, and we, or I will try to help you further. If there are trouble codes it may lead you to the problem.

Check to see if fuel pump is running and if it is it sounds like a fuel filter. Also if it is fuel injected I would check my fuel pressure. Something is letting fuel in but not enough to keep engine runing.gillight

A broken cable will have neither the odometer or the speedometer working. If your speedometer is working, then the odometer gears in the dash have stripped or come loose, and should be replaced. If the cable needs replacing, pull the cluster out of the dash and unclip the cable end from the speedometer, and unscrew the bottom fitting of cable from the transaxle.

you need a vacum modulator

check your fuses for your power windows

Sounds like you are having a fuel problem with the fuel filter. If you have not had your car serviced in quite awhile i would do so. At least change the fuel filter and check the air filter as well. Hope thias will help you.

If the sound is like whinning, check your power steering fluid. If it is clicking it is your wheel shaft or joint.

first find the water pump for every vehicle ive ever worked on the water pump is always right above the main pulley once you locate the pump unscrew the hose from the pump to the radiator and then take all the bolts off the pump slowly wiggle the pump off so you don't damage the gasket on the water pump then take your new water pump and line it up to the holes for the bolt and put all the bolts back in and then reattach the water pump hose to the pump and to the radiator and then fill the radiator up and your good to go

i would say air in the lnes first and how long ago was it that you had your brakes put on ? and was it at a shop if so take it back they hav to fix it because they could have messed it up ...

It comes from the radiator fill neck, just below the radiator cap. There should be a hose outlet fitting there to push it on, and clamp it if it's too loose. The reservoir is a necessary part of your coolant system, cycling coolant back and forth from the radiator. When coolant is hot and expanded, some will be pushed into the reservoir. And when it all cools down, the radiator will siphon some of the coolant back from the reservoir. It all works as a good, closed, and pressurized system -when it works as intended, that is.You are right to try and fill the reservoir. Too many people don't even check it. Cheerrr-r-r-s!

if you let off the gas and it stops vibrating, have the cv axles checked. if the steering wheel shakes at parking lot speeds, a tire is bad.

The spark intensity is most important .Remove all plugs to check gap and condition of plugs. The black plug indication will confirm that the performance is bad whereas a fully fired plug without deposits must be the ideal view. Check the HT coil and the HT wires, if the intensity is bad this must be swapped and checked to confirm. DO NOT CHANGE any part without a confirmation by trying with a replacement from another vehicle or friend. Finally the LT trigger to the coils must be checked be it from the platinum points or an electronic ignition unit. The voltage of the trigger must be high to give the best HT output.

check the voltage to the sections of the coil and ignition unit which if present will confirm the fault on the unit.

Are you getting fuel to the cylinders(if so,then injectors are pulsing,which means you're getting crank signal).If not,it may be the crankshaft sensor(this gives the PCM input for both).If you are getting fuel,but no spark,see if the ignition module is putting out switched 12v to the coils(I'm thinking this is a distributorless setup).If it is,the next step is to reconnect the coils and see if you get spark.